Buvare: First & Hope

A weekend morning at Sunset Junction is never complete without a good haunt at Barkeeper - possibly my favorite retail shop in the city. A couple of weeks ago between flirts with the bitters and artisan cocktail syrup selections (by way of the patient and always enthusiastic sales clerks), a flier on the counter caught my eye. The following night Iron Bar Chef Tony Abou-Ganim was having a cocktail book launch at the new First & Hope Downtown Supper Club, featuring visiting bartenders from around the country - and I had already decided I was most definitely going to attend.

A burst of life tucked back in the corner of a sleepy business complex a block from the Walt Disney Concert Hall, Fist & Hope is an unexpected high class joint. A flight of regally dressed ladies greeted us inside the glass doors, an oblong divan, draping chandelier and enomatic wine system pulled our attention toward the bar side. A gorgeous gleaming wood bar, curving walls, deco ceiling tiles, and cool-toned lighting effortlessly created a chic mystique.

The uniforms at First & Hope are simply impossible to ignore, perfectly tailored satin grey numbers on the ladies and fitted white cocktail coats on the men, evoking a vintage elegance a la Mad Men - appropos as we found out costume designer Janie Bryant of Mad Men designed the meticulously fitted get ups.

The evening's premiere event Red Rover, Red Rover got its name when cocktail consultant for First & Hope's beverage program Aidan Demarest decided to bring over an array of visiting mixologists for the debut: Erick Castro of The Rickhouse in San Francisco, Misty Kalkofen of Drink in Boston, John Lermayer of the Delano Hotel in Miami, and Juan Sevilla of LA’s Soho House.

This dream team delivered an INSANELY good cocktail menu! We decided to go down the list and try everybody's specialties, two by two. First and possibly a favorite was Erick Castro's sophisticated Statesman (above), an herbaceous dry cocktail differentiated from a standard Gin martini by a whisper of Rothman & Winter Pear, Chartreuse, and orange bitters. THE most refreshing and elegant drink, probably ever. Castro's flipside offering Little Monster's Exotic Punch packed a spicy Caribbean wallop, served from a punch bowl at the end of the bar. The wicked concoction blended Clement VSOP Rum, Dry Sack Oloroso 15 yr Sherry, Allspice Dram, fresh lime, cane sugar, grated nutmeg, and sparkling water.

At our corner of the bar, Boston's charming Misty Kalkofen busted some serious behind, shaking and stirring cocktails two at a time all night with a hearty laugh. We tried her menu offerings next, the St. Pierre (Clement Premiere Canne Rum, Green Chartreuse, fresh lemon and white grapefruit juices) was a pleasant beachfront sipper, while the smart and lusty La Revelacion was just that - a revelation. The ingenious potion of Spanish Brandy, Dry Sack, Sherry, Rhum Clement Creole Shrub, and absinthe. Sounds plain stiff, but it was remarkably smooth and palatable.

We moved next into the back room, a Guys and Dolls-esque jazz club aptly called the Fedora. A gleaming grand piano held court over the small club while a second bar was stirring cocktails fervently.

We ordered a pair of Juan Sevilla's spirited libations seated at our corner booth, enjoying the music and vibe. Summer in Martinique was sweet and hot, with Rhum Clement, Habanero-infused agave nectar, Aperol, and fresh lemon. Smokin' Redcoat was a sophisticated layering of Martin Miller's Gin, Carpano Antica Formula and Mescal. Wowza!

Out of nowhere, a white coat appeared with a tray and the best line of the night "14 karat gold dusted bacon fudge??" Why yes, of  course!

The other most amusing among the hors d'oeuvres were the cotton candy style air-puffed "Jolly Ranchers". Yes, they tasted exactly like those fruity sweet morsels from our childhood.

After some more noshing and sloshing, we moved on from the Fedora to the book signing area. Tony was deep in flirtatious conversation with a semi-circle of fans, while co-writer Mary Elizabeth Faulkner smiled sweetly, quietly signing alongside. While Tony didn't look up when signing my book and misspelled my name, Mary Elizabeth was engaging and even pointed me in the direction of some killer recipes that seemed up my alley. We thanked her for being such a sugar, and with one final lap to thank the bartenders, decided to call it a night.

Once outside again we were back in the unassuming quiet corner of downtown. The Walt Disney Concert Hall and Ahmanson Theatre glimmered beyond the fountain as we smiled at our fortune for such a lovely and unexpected night.

First & Hope Downtown Supper Club
710 W First St. Downtown LA; 213.617.8555
firstandhope.com

Croquer: Mercantile

A perfect brunch is the quickest way to my heart. Despite my intense love for Los Angeles, there has always been a fallow pocket in said heart awaiting its unrequited. Many have come close, but after living in Portland where brunch is quite literally sanctified, I will be the first to admit how high my standards are. Enter the modest and saintly Mercantile. Quietly it entered the scene some months ago tucked in an offbeat stretch of Sunset not used to the weekend brunch crowd. Which immediately made me like it. Still rarely overcrowded, Mercantile offers an extremely level-headed, approachable, and knowledgeable staff, a casual no-frills setting, yet incredibly high end food. It is something this city has been begging for, and I'm praying it continues to deliver.

Serving double as a marketplace, Mercantile has a stocked cheese case, shelves of condiments, affordable hard-to-find house-packed spices, Dolin Vermouth (the best), imported oils and vinegars, and a sinful display of daily homemade doughnuts, 'oreos', canneles, other breakfast goodies and gorgeous desserts.

Once seated in the main market space, lofted dining room, patio or bar, a clipboard displays their brunch menu and all its country comfort glory. If it's a hair of the dog morning, Mercantile makes a mean housemade bloody mary served in a frosty mason jar. Of course there's always a mimosa, but for a twist try their French 75, gin blended with lemon, lime, and orange zest, a splash of juice from each, and topped with sparkling wine.

My first bite at Mercantile was the Chilaquiles (always a defining breakfast dish), theirs made with a pumpkin seed chile sauce, topped with cotija and a sunny side up eggs. A robust, crispy take on the dish, perfectly cooked eggs bolstering a thumbs up.

To share at the table, the Ginger Snap Pancakes with vanilla soaked prunes, mascarpone & almonds. What sounds saccharine is actually quite spicy and refined, a trace of syrup on the plate the only truly sweet component. Recommended for those tempted by breakfast's sweet side, but easily overwhelmed by sugar.

The winner of the first visit was the genius Southern Benedict, poached eggs atop corn meal cakes, a hearty crab-tasso ham ragout, mustard greens, and a purely evil Tabasco hollandaise! Spicy, crabby and decadent.. a veritable Louisiana hangover helper.

Other winners I've had since (oh yes, I've been back) include the Duck Confit Hash with sunny-side up egg, sweet potato, wild arugula, candied black walnut, caramelized onion and mustard. But my favorite dish to date is the Maple Glazed Pork Belly. Quite the "it" dish lately, this pork belly stands apart as probably the best I've ever had, tender and smoky with a kiss of woody sweetness, served over white grits, topped with scallions, and sunny side up egg, and drizzled with a fine maple reduction. Magnifique!

Do yourself a favor this weekend and enter Mercantile's warm embrace.

6600 West Sunset Blvd. Hollywood; 323.962.8202
themercantilela.com

Carnish Culture: Food Party & Dinner With the Band Debut

I've long been a big fan and supporter of Food Party, a fantastical, food-centric handmade wonderland turned IFC Original Comedy series created and hosted by Brooklyn fringe artist Thu Tran and her motley mix of unruly puppets. The comedy’s hallucinatory hijinks will be served in 20 all-new 15-minute episodes, two episodes airing back-to-back during IFC’s Tuesday night AUTOMAT programming block, followed by new episodes of Dinner with the Band.

Some of my college mates have also struck success at IFC with their original series Dinner with the Band, combining culinary delights, musical performances and conversations with select acclaimed indie music artists. In each of the 30-minute episodes, celebrated NYC rock-n-roll chef Sam Mason (Tailor, WD-50), invites a band over to his Brooklyn loft where he teaches them how to add his signature culinary spin to their favorite “on-tour” food.

Food Party and Dinner with the Band debut tomorrow, April 27 at 10:00 pm ET/PT on IFC
Thu Tran of Food Party will be chatting with fans LIVE online during the premiere.

Voyager Bien: Ace Hotel & Swim Club Palm Springs

You shouldn't be a stranger to the Ace Hotel dynasty... But if you are, you have some homework to do. The mindful, smartly designed and accessible American hotel group has changed the reality of urban travel for Seattle, Portland, and New York - and with the addition of Palm Springs, the get-away vacation.

Located on East Palm Canyon Drive just south of downtown Palm Springs, The Ace Hotel & Swim Club occupies a sprawling 1965 Howard Johnson motor hotel and resurrects its late mid-century vintage spirit as a stylistic springboard. Combining desert chic, modern simplicity, and a sense of adventure and rustic luxury, the Ace is immediately comfortable and challengingly familiar.

Housed in a former Denny's at the hotel's helm, the King's Highway restaurant evokes roadside diner mainly in aesthetic, replacing greasy, fried, and processed with local, seasonal, and organic. With an eclectic menu, Portland's infamous Stumptown coffee (a unicorn find for CA), a handy to-go counter for in-room dining, and poolside service, your snacking needs are well accounted for.

For your thirst, the quaint and charming Amigo Room is enlisted with a flight of extremely accommodating bartenders mixing up classics and zesty Latin-inspired cocktails.

Fresh squeezed fruit juices and house-made mixers take the agave-kissed Amigo Margarita and herbaceous Desert Facial (muddled cucumber and mint, vodka, pineapple) to a class level hard to match on the Palm Springs strip of yesteryear tourist watering holes.

My favorite, the Daiquiri Perfecto, made with 8 year aged golden rum, brown sugar and lime truly is the perfect nightcap after a scorcher in the desert sun.

The Swim Club includes a snaking pool, geometric hot tub, day spa, gym, towel & cocktail service, poolside hammocks, and of course a tamale cart. DJs and bands round out the weekend poolside experience, with refreshments of boozy sno cones (blackberry/vodka, mango/rum) and a flaming walk-up cash barbecue. Guests wanting to do-it-themselves can order a BBQ kit to be delivered to the room for "VIP" patio parties.

We opted to finish the afternoon with lunch from King's Highway delivered on the poolside patio. A.L.T. sandwiches and fish tacos gave us energy to wrap up our towels and totes and get back on the road. Palm Springs... it may only be a hop from LA, but sadly weekends don't last forever. At least there's always something to look forward to, an oasis waiting lazily in the desert sun.

Ace Hotel & Swim Club
701 East Palm Canyon Dr. Palm Springs, CA 92264; 760.325.9900
acehotel.com