The Chocolate of Meats

Buvare: Gilded Cava Punch

2012-01-25T19:29:00.000-08:00

It's awards show season!
On the Table Set we have been discussing how to gussy up your next plain ol' TV party into something to remember. This honey-kissed sparkling punch that I created for Homefries U would make a classy sipper for an Oscar party, or an upscale afternoon with Oscar the Grouch.

Gilded Cava Punch

1 pint Krupnik Honey Liqueur
1 cup Dolin Blanc Vermouth
1 cup fresh lemon juice
1/3 cup rich simple syrup*
4 bottles Cava Brut
1 liter club soda
Fee Brothers Plum Bitters

In a pitcher, combine honey liqueur, vermouth, lemon juice, rich simple syrup and 10 dashes of bitters, cover and refrigerate until chilled, about 2 hours. To serve, pour the mixture over a large block of ice in a punch bowl and slowly add chilled Cava and club soda. Garnish with lemon wheels.
Serve in wine goblets.

*Rich Simple Syrup

1 cup demerara sugar
1/2 cup water

Combine sugar and water in a small saucepan and stir over low heat until a rich syrup develops. Remove from heat, cool, and store in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.

Buvare: Distillery Row

2012-01-13T19:08:00.000-08:00

Portland is pretty sly.
Disguised as a sleepy town, the artisans there are often, sneakily, a few steps ahead. Especially in the booze department.
Let's not forget the liquid treasure produced by the vineyard-filled Oregon valleys surrounding Portland that shook up the American wine world, or where the craft beer movement established a formidable foundation.
Several years back, I visited Clear Creek Distillery in industrial NW Portland, at the time a refreshingly anomalous producer of eaux de vie, grappa and wine brandy. Nowadays, Portland has so many craft distilleries that they have their own district deemed Distillery Row and a passport to guide you through it. Clearly this is not something I would pass by. Listen up.

Aware that intoxication was a fair prediction for the afternoon, I opted for the distilleries within walking distance of each other. Unfortunately, due to tasting hours as well, that ruled out Stone Barn Brandyworks in SE's Brooklyn neighborhood. (Alas, something to look forward to for next time.)
And so we started out at Integrity Spirits, ready for the first stamp in our adorable passport (which cost $20, and waives tasting fees at all distilleries on the self-guided tour).

I was familiar with Integrity's Lovejoy Vodka, a beautifully designed bottle housing a lightly viscous vodka with hints of chamomile. Yummy.

The 12 Bridges Gin was my favorite, with a bright blend of herbs and spices reminiscent of Hendrick's (light juniper and that hint of cucumber).

The Hazelnut Vodka was a nutty punch to the palate, super tasty and roasty. Almost Nutella-like with cocoa character.

Next we sampled two batches of infused vodkas under the Sub Rosa label. The Tarragon was fresh and vegetal with licorice and pepper notes (a fun booze for cooking). The bright yellow Saffron was complex with lemony coriander, cumin, and pepper notes.

Integrity is famous for their Trillium Absinthe Supèrieure, Oregon’s first absinthe and one of the first in the US after it became legal. The 120 proof absinthe is intended to be diluted and sweetened per traditional ritual, which we prepared during the tasting. The result was one of the smoothest, most palatable absinthes I've enjoyed.

Next up was New Deal Distillery down the street. Known for their vodka, I was most impressed with the range of product New Deal presented. All exceptionally well-executed.

I was startled by the drinkability of New Deal Vodka. Smooth "sipping vodka" with clean botanicals and an easy finish. Even the 88, a traditional vodka distilled in copper stills, bottled at 88 proof. A piece of cake! A delicious piece of cake.

I got really excited when we moved to the handsome Gin No. 1 and Gin No. 3. A study for purists, these are two very different gins using juniper as the sole botanical. The first is a less-refined early-Dutch-style gin, cloudy, lightly yellow, and viscous. This is not a mixing gin, it is meant to be sipped neat and enjoyed. The latter, Gin No. 3 is bright and complex, shocking such a melange of flavors (pine, mint, citrus) could come purely from juniper berries. Absolutely delectable. This was a gin I needed to own (and do).

We tasted a lovely coffee liqueur and new ginger liqueur, but both were eclipsed by the Mud Puddle. Unlike most cloying chocolate-flavored liqueurs, here cacao is added to this spirit prior to distillation for a dry and subtle, rich after-dinner treat.
The brave of us finished off the tasting with a fiery shot of Hot Monkey, a piquant blend of five Southwestern chili peppers, lending just enough heat to keep you wanting more. Forget the bloody mary, this stuff is great on its own or with a splash of tropical fruit juice.

Overall I was most excited for our visit to House Spirits, which was the perfect place to finish off the increasingly galvanizing day.

Known for their Aviation Gin, the owners at House Spirits were more like hosts, and us their guests. They offered Aviation and Fever Tree tonics as we perused the shop before diving into the tasting. Their famous full-bodied, Dutch-style recipe blends juniper, cardamom, coriander, lavender, anise seed, sarsaparilla and dried sweet orange peel. This stuff is major.

A growing star among the ranks at House Spirits is their Krogstad Aquavit, an invigorating take on the traditional Scandinavian spirit lightly spiced with star anise and caraway seed. A chilled glass will warm even your winteriest nights!

We quickly moved to the big guns, the Limited Release Line. These small-batch specialty stunners range in production from a few cases to a few pallets, each apothecary bottle numbered.

We got to check out Gammal Krogstad, a barrel-aged version of the previous Aquavit, rested for 10 month in 3 barrels (a 53 gallon House Spirits whiskey barrel and two 30 gallon used House Spirits rum barrels). The blend of the three produced a honeyed grandfather to the crisp Aquavit, with deep amber resonant notes.

Then we tried the White Dog.
House Spirits White Dog un-aged whiskey (50% abv) is made from 100% malted barley and Oregon Bull Run water. Unlike moonshine, White Dog starts big and rich, with a malty nose, chewy mouthfeel, and insanely disparate flavors from white pepper to lemon peel, flower petal to Halloween candy. I shouted "WHOA" when I took my first taste, and "more?" after my second. This was my trophy bottle of the day, and if you can find it, recommend you buy it at once. You won't be sorry.

So yeah, we were pretty tanked by the end of the day. But all the better for wandering into random rose garden picnics.
I love you, Portland. Thank you for being so good to me. Until next time...

distilleryrowpdx.com

Buvare: Kask

2012-01-12T12:40:00.000-08:00

When you have a hit on your hands, what comes next? For the folks at Grüner, the answer is open a badass, invitingly-pretentious downtown cocktail room around the corner.
Enter Kask. The kids love it. The product is immaculate. The space is... a mining den? Whatever, it's adorable. You'll love it.

Judah is a man about town. He knew the pretty bartender. He ordered off-menu. He asked for a Gunsmoke and she broke out the big matches.

After a few minutes smoking his inverted bucket glass, she filled it with Rittenhouse Rye, Gran Classico, Combier Rouge, bitters and burnt orange. It smelled like heaven. A burned-out, destitute version of heaven, anyway. Deeelicious.

I was wooed by the exotic odd-man-out on the menu, the High Desert Swizzle. This summer slow-burner paired Del Maguey Vida mezcal with strawberry shrub, lime, and demerara sugar. At first smoky with a vinegar punch, it finished fruity-bright and mellowly sweet. Dangerously addictive. And not unlike an agave-spiked Strawberry Kiwi Mister Misty (that's a good thing).

I was impressed with Kask, the sexiest drinking den in downtown Portland yet. Even if the chairs are borrowed from a kindergarten classroom, they bring us all that little bit closer...

1215 SW Alder St. Portland, OR 97205
grunerpdx.com/kask

Croquer: Grüner

2012-01-11T12:01:00.000-08:00

As soon as I moved away from Portland, something seemingly magical happened (coincidentally, I'm sure).
Everyone was raving. Long before the Alpine craze spread like wildfire, downtown Portland's Grüner was winning diners over with their "greener" (which grüner means in German) approach to goulash and spätzle. Perhaps it was my visit to Bavaria and the Austrian Alps in my formative years, but old-world Middle Europe is my soft spot. Upon my visit back to Portland, Grüner was at the very top of my list.

Brooke and I met up with Portland(-by-way-of-LA) transplant Anna of Banana Wonder for happy hour on Grüner's sidewalk patio, rumored to be one of the best happy hours in town. After one glance at the exceptionally reasonably-priced menu I understood why.

I couldn't deny the allure of the Aquabeet cocktail, with Krogstad aquavit, beet gastrique, and lemon juice. It was bright, earthy and refreshing. And strong!

The Dangerous Summer was a fitting choice for the day, which Brooke and Anna enjoyed, comprised of Appleton Jamaican White Rum, Maraska maraschino, raspberry syrup, lime, and flamed lemon. A little too easy to tipple...

Essentially, we ordered one of everything... Starting with the signature beet pickled hard-boiled eggs.

The duck liver mousse was forceful and pungent. We all sampled it silently, politely admitting later that we favored it least of the bunch.

On the other hand, the house-made liptauer cheese with radishes, celery and pretzel croutons could have come in a much larger crock, as we devoured it in seconds.

I insisted on the rabbit frankfurter, brioche bun & dill pickle relish, which was buttery and tasty. I wanted to order a second to get a larger bite, but wisely waited for everything else to come out first.

Anna is a bit of a pretzel freak, and I am right there with her. We were both disappointed not to see Grüner's on the happy hour offerings. Our server apologized as it only appears as a side on the dinner menu, but after some begging agreed to oblige our request. A curious braid, this pretzel was almost a baguette hybrid, but with good flavor and chewy crust/flesh ratio. Anna seemed to give it a thumbs up.

Gosh, we were still hungry. Time to call in the charcuterie — salami, spicy coppa, cornichons & mustard tided us over until the big sausage came.

It wouldn't be Alpine cuisine with bratwurst, and Grüner's is plump and delicious, covered in sauerkraut alongside sweet mustard. This is truly all I need, and a wise way to finish our Germanic snackage fest. We called for our check, which arrived in a gorgeous piece of literature on Weimar Culture. Had only they dropped that sooner, we may have left sated and smarter.

527 SW 12th Ave. Portland, OR 97205; 503.241.7163
grunerpdx.com

Croquer: Broder

2012-01-10T19:38:00.000-08:00

If you find yourself trolling Pinterest for like super cute Scandanavian dream breakfast joints, well, SE Portland's Broder is your jam. The narrow subway-tiled dining room / open kitchen is crowned with geometric branch-like light fixtures and punctuated with bright yellow and robin's egg blue industrial chairs. The brunch menu is short and sweet, rich with Swedish staples. The coffee is Stumptown, so everyone wins.

Brooke enjoys a kaffe

I am always a sucker for signature dishes, so from a quick read vibed that the friterade äpplen was my best bet. These thick grilled apple fritters are dusted in sugar and served with baked eggs, a blistered apple pork sausage, sour cream and maple syrup (sweet+savory always wins). It's hard not to enjoy such a smörgåsbord, though I found the fritters to be plated as more of an afterthought than deserved center stage.

Brooke's Broder breakfast sandwich looked delicious, a manly open-faced situation on sourdough rye with country ham, Swedish farmer's cheese, marjoram cream, two baked eggs, house ketchup, and a big sharp utility knife. And yet a light portion. Rawr.

Judah had to steal the limelight with a sizzling cast-iron skillet holding his förlorade ägg. These "lost eggs" hid under fried brown bread, spinach, bleu cheese and walnuts. Crunchy!

Broder is the kind of cozy café I not only want on my corner, but would want to open a branch of on my corner. Solid, across the board. Skål!

2508 SE Clinton St. Portland, OR 97202
broderpdx.com

Buvare: Bushwhacker Cider

2012-01-10T13:10:00.000-08:00

I remember a time when I silently giggled at my friends who ordered cider at the bar, all smug with my Black Butte Porter or Maker's 'n soda. Funny how things change.
Cider has come a long way in the past several years, and I think I'd actually dub 2011 my year of mad cider crushage, climaxing with my favorite brew to date: Bonny Doon's Brut-ish ¿Querry? Apple/Pear/Quince Hard Sparkling Cider.

My most fruitful cider rendezvous this past year however definitely took place in SE Portland's Brooklyn neighborhood at a little hole-in-the-wall called Bushwhacker Cider.
Bushwhacker’s is America’s only urban cider(-only) pub, featuring seven ciders on draft, 120+ ciders in bottle (to stay or to-go), and if that's not enough, darts. It was a perfect golden afternoon when Brooke and I visited the garage space (mythical to me by that point from Brooke's reports), and I couldn't have been more excited to try the draft sampler tray - for a steal, no less.

The sampler was bounteous, beginning with a bone-dry crisp-n-clear cider and running a colorful spectrum, from the farmy house-brewed cider (tanks filled the back of the room) to sweeter caramel fizzies. The feat of the tray was in pointing out the vibrant palette cider is capable of, and how like most spirits and brews, there's a golden niche for everyone. Even haters like me.

1212-D SE Powell Blvd. Portland, OR 97202; 503.445.0577
Bushwhackercider.com

Croquer: St. Jack

2012-01-09T12:55:00.000-08:00

We hurtled a blockade and ambled down over the train tracks. Given the crisp evening, I was pleased the restaurant was walking distance, but surprised skipping tracks was part of the route. Judah and Brooke have never let me down, and could practically market themselves professional Portland concierges, so I didn't question. On the other side of the train yard we soon hit SE Clinton Street, a familiar stretch lined with family residences, shade trees and bicyclists. A rustic clapboard corner ahead housed our destination, Restaurant St. Jack.

Opened by Canadian chef Aaron Barnett (23Hoyt, Olea) and restaurateur Kurt Huffman of Chefstable, St. Jack embodies the best of a traditional Lyonnaise bouchon (read: with a healthy focus on meat). Alissa Rozos (Bluehour) rounds out the team on the pâtisserie side, making the best canelé in town. We saddled up at the bar bastioned by grandfather candles ready for a taste from one of Portland's rising stars.

The bar program by Kyle Webster distracted me from the Pôts Lyonnais option, traditional 46cl bottles imported from Lyon serving wine direct from the barrel. That said I was pleased with my Baccarat cocktail, an elegant union of bourbon, Carpano Antica, Aperol, Maraska Maraschino, and Regan's No. 6 bitters. Brooke's Guillotine was another killer, with Appleton V/X rum, Cointreau, lemon, housemade grenadine, and Kübler Absinthe.

Judah swears by the Gratin De Macaroni, oven baked with Gruyère, Aged Cheddar, Rogue Blue, Bacon and Shallot. I'm not often swayed toward overly-rich mac 'n cheese, but this dish was extraordinary.

I was seduced by one of the board's specials, Coeur de Boeuf. I hadn't ever eaten beef heart, that I'm aware of, so chanced this classy joint would make me love it. Seared bloody rare and sliced alongside perfectly golden pommes frites and tarragon-thick béarnaise, the lean, flavorful muscle was a carnal delight.

We shared a dessert, settling on the Chocolate Pastis Pot du Crème with carmelized peaches and lacey chocolate wafer. The combination of disparate flavors was intoxicating and unique. A perfect adieu.

After dinner we walked down the street to the Savoy Tavern for a night cap. A cozy neighborhood joint, we ran into friends and enjoyed a late night happy hour scratch Old Fashioned. Oh, how I miss Portland sometimes.

2039 SE Clinton St. Portland, OR 97202; 503.360.1281
stjackpdx.com

Buvare: Courier Coffee

2012-01-06T15:38:00.000-08:00

One of the first people I met when I moved into my undergrad dorm was a compact and spry fellow down the hall called Joel Domreis. He was duct-taping a cardboard box to the wall, which he planned to use to house martini glasses. Those glasses may not have survived freshman year, but his growing love-turned-obsession with coffee, bicycling, and green living during those formative years have proven otherwise.

Eight years after he began roasting his own beans in his backyard, Joel's Courier Coffee has developed staid clout and a devoted following alongside heavyweights like Stumptown in the always-pioneering Portland coffee scene. Initially a bike delivery roastery, August 2010 saw the opening of Courier's formidable downtown café (an experience which Joel blogged extensively about). Around the corner from Powell's Books and the Ace Hotel, the spare bar boasts "no lines, no register" and offers a selection of house-made baked goods. And killer fresh coffee, of course.
Joel keeps it real. "We are dedicated to being small, local and awesome."

Time to make the cold brew.

Strong coffee + fancy ice.

"We serve coffee like beer, except we don't serve beer."

923 SW Oak St. Portland, OR 97205; 503.545.6444
couriercoffeeroasters.com

Voyager Bien: My Portlandia

2012-01-05T18:53:00.000-08:00

Thanks to Portlandia, everyone who didn't already know the Northwest's sweetheart intimately now thinks they do. Six years after leaving the sleepy Rose City behind, I visited at the close of the summer (AKA Portland Oregon's one month of absolutely perfect weather) for another tango with my beloved former home. Yes it's saccharinely adorable as ever, but there is —and always has been— a lot more to it than eco-friendly hipsters making art, with birds on it.

Yes, bike racks have knitted koozies

Surely one of the utmost highlights of 2011 was wandering Portland's lush summer streets, agenda-less, seeing where the days took us. One afternoon landed us in Ladd Circle park and rose gardens where friends transformed a neighborhood roundabout into a gilded picnic for several lingering daylight hours.

Joel from Courier Coffee produced cold brew pint jars from his Chrome bag

Reunited with old friends, what better to do in Portland than garden party?

We congregated at Andrea and Bruce's quintessential Craftsman bungalow in Southeast, overgrown with gorgeous foliage, fruit trees, and a rich vegetable & herb garden out back.

With a trip to New Seasons (my favorite market, period) and a supplemental walk through the garden we effortlessly had a beautiful summer menu in the works. Friends sipped crisp Oregon white wine and gin blackberry cocktails as we prepared the meal.

Judah made a vegetarian risotto with oyster mushrooms, lemon and white wine. To have alongside I prepared succulent peaches with goat feta, basil and Nasturtium blossoms; shaved summer squash with fennel and lemon; and kale & avocado salad.

Then Brooke's peach and blackberry chocolate upside-down cake knocked our socks off! And led us into another favorite Portland pastime... wandering to the closest neighborhood watering hole for inexpensive whiskey cocktails and if you're lucky an accidental dip in a koi pond (don't ask).

All week I will be featuring my Portland adventures. And boy were there a lot! From distillery tours to coffee roasters, sausage mongers to cider houses. Keep it tuned...

Gala Parfait: Yuletide Christmas Punch

2011-12-14T09:05:00.000-08:00

On The Table Set, I am referred to as the "punch guy." So for our holiday party I knew I really had to step it up and make something special. In lieu of a default sparkling wine punch with cranberries and lemon wheels I delved further, exploring old English Christmas punches and colonial tea-based punches. I came up with this Yuletide Christmas Punch, borrowing from the best and creating a mellow, dry, spicy and earthy rum punch that warms the soul while it quenches.

Yuletide Christmas Punch

These ingredients should make two healthy batches. Note that the strong black tea and demerara syrup can be made well in advance, and all ingredients chilled until the punch is mixed. (The ice mold is not meant to chill the ingredients as much as retain their cool temperature.)

1 bottle (750ml) dark rum
1 bottle (750ml) spiced rum
1 bottle (750ml) brandy
1 bottle (750ml) dry Lambrusco
2 liters club soda
1 quart strong black tea
1 cup fresh orange juice
1 cup fresh lemon juice
2 cups demerara sugar
3 small oranges or tangerines
cinnamon stick
cloves
star anise
tarragon
nutmeg

One day ahead, fill a bundt pan with water, cover with plastic wrap and freeze overnight.

Prepare strong tea by bringing a quart of water to a near boil. Pour into a heat-proof vessel with 8 black tea bags and cinnamon stick. Set aside to steep and cool.

Return saucepan to stove and begin warming a pint of water over medium heat.

Rub a lemon in a non-reactive dish of sugar until the sugar takes the color from the lemon, absorbing its oils. Add a splash of hot water and stir to make a paste, or 'sherbet'. Set aside.

Add 2 cups demerara sugar to the saucepan and stir until completely dissolved and syrup just comes to a boil. Remove from heat and let cool.

Using the tip of a knife, score and stud oranges with cloves to make pomanders. Wrap in foil and place in the oven at 200 degrees for ten minutes or until fragrant. Remove from the oven.

In a punch bowl combine exactly half the bottles of Lambrusco, rums, brandy, tea and juices. Stir in the sherbet, and demerara syrup to taste, approximately half of the batch.

Remove decorative ice mold from freezer. Place bundt pan into a bowl of warm water to loosen the ice from the mold. Carefully lower ice mold (or block ice) into punch base, and top with one liter chilled club soda. Garnish with pomanders, fresh tarragon sprigs, star anise, and a generous dusting of freshly grated nutmeg.

When the punch requires refreshment, add the remaining ingredients and stir until combined.

Recettes Secrètes: Ensalada de Noche Buena

2011-12-14T08:00:00.000-08:00

Though I first experienced this salad a decade or so ago in Tucson when my mother prepared it for Christmas Eve (as she does now every year), its origins are in Santa Fe. Throughout the festivities on Christmas Eve ―Noche Buena, the “Good Night,” as it’s known there― New Mexico's lively and vibrant cuisine is paramount. This colorful and refreshing side dish proudly represents Santa Fe's unique blend of cultures and traditions.

Ensalada de Noche Buena
adapted from Rick Bayless and Homesick Texan

4 large beets, roasted and cut into sticks
3 seedless oranges, supremed
4 Granny Smith apples, cored and cut into sticks
5 tablespoons fresh lime juice
2 1/2 tablespoons fresh orange juice
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
1/4 cup olive oil
1 medium (about 1 pound) jícama, peeled and cut into sticks
1 head of romaine lettuce
1/4 cup chopped roasted peanuts
Seeds from 1 pomegranate
1 tablespoon colored candy cake decorations (grajeas in Mexico), for garnish

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Clean the beets and remove any leafy stems. Place the beets on a sheet of foil and toss with the olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and then wrap the beets in the foil. Place foil-wrapped beets on a baking sheet and bake for 40 minutes or until you can easily stick a fork into the beets. Once cool, rub the beets with a paper towel to remove the skin. Slice the beets into sticks and place in a large bowl with the Granny Smith apples.

Finely mince the zest of one orange and mix with the lime juice, orange juice, salt, sugar and olive oil. Drizzle over the beets and apples, stir to incorporate, and let stand 1 hour.

Cut away the rind and all white pith on the oranges. Cut between each white membrane and remove the segments. Reserve.

To serve, lay outer leaves of the romaine on a serving platter. Tear the heart to create a bed of lettuce. Scatter with the jicama sticks. Scoop the beet mixture into the center, then sprinkle with the reserved orange segments, pomegranate seeds, and peanuts. Garnish with orange zest and candies.

Serves 8

I was reminded by my friend Katie (a New Mexico native) at the Table Set holiday party, where I served this, how absolutely delicious Gruet Brut NV (also from New Mexico) is, and how well it pairs with this crisp salad. Trust me, it will make for a noche buena!

Croquer: Bar Tartine

2011-12-13T15:37:00.000-08:00

San Francisco's Mission neighborhood has a need for new restaurants and bars about as much as I need second dessert. Yet amongst the hullabaloo, a constant star has always been Tartine Bakery. Though I'd peeked into the windows of their younger sister restaurant Bar Tartine, I had not had the pleasure to dine there.
Lucky for me, that is where Catherine decided we would dine for her 30th birthday. And did we!

As three of the four of us went to college in the Willamette Valley, the Adelsheim Pinot Gris seemed fitting for the celebration. The crisp, clean pinot gris provided a wonderful companion to the vegetable-forward Eastern European-influenced menu.

To start, we grazed on duck pate, rye bread, gooseberry jam, elderberry and coriander mustards. And chewy Tartine Bakery bread, of course.

A jar of green cherry tomato pickles added a bright accompaniment to the board.

Our succession of veggie-heavy small plates started with the smoked eggplant, cranberry beans, and garlic sausage. Rich and smoky, yet somehow (albeit sharing) I did not get a bite of eggplant!

Probably my favorite of the lot, the romano beans, potatoes, basil, and corn sauce was a stunner. So simple, yet we all silently fought over the last beans, and even scraped the tangy corn sauce from the dish...

Halászlé is a Hungarian fisherman's soup, here comprised of mussels, sturgeon, tomato, green chili, purslane, and fennel. The paprika broth is a bold and delicious base for mussels. A runner up for my favorite, though selfishly I wished for a couple more mussels!

The butter boletes mushrooms, yoghurt, turnip sauce, carrot, and radish was an earthy side in the disguise of a stand-aone dish. Not terribly memorable on the shadow of the Halászlé.

The side of summer squash, squash blossoms, and curried squash sauce was brought out last. We consumed it vacantly (read: on the side of ubiquitous), possibly due to the coursing order. Might have fit more nicely at the beginning of the meal.

The dessert left a little to be desired as well. Layers of sour cream custard, lemon curd, poppyseed, and a cherry/oat/walnut crumble suggested disparate flavors and sensations, but lacked a certain pride that any one of the contents of the Tartine Bakery case exudes.

After dinner we walked around the corner to spend the rest of Catherine's birthday sipping drinks upstairs in The Hideout, the back room bar at Dalva (3121 16th St.) The cocktails here are serious, such was the "Whisky In Church": Smokehead Scotch, Oloroso Sherry, and a splash of maple and pear syrup. Holy! Bittersweet amaro cocktails quickly lulled us into pleasant propensity.
The night was good.

Bar Tartine
561 Valencia St. San Francisco, CA 94110; 415.487.1600
bartartine.com

Voyager Bien: Brunch & the Bay

2011-12-13T15:17:00.000-08:00

When I moved out of Portland in 2005, I knew Oregon would always be my home away from home, largely because of the adopted family I was leaving behind. And while PDX is still tattooed on my heart, my last visit to the bay area reminded me that often times people is place. It was my dear friend Catherine's milestone 30th, and I was helping her celebrate in her new city post-Portland. But curled up in her cozy Tenderloin apartment with Casey and Allie Afternoon (their pug) while we ordered-in dinner, I was overwhelmed with the familiar comfort of home.

For our first family outing, Catherine decided to make a day out of going to breakfast. We drove over the Golden Gate Bridge and into the Marin Headlands, winding down between the historic officers' residences of Fort Baker. Eventually this lead us to Murray Circle at Cavallo Point. Brunch, with one heck of a view.

While we weren't there for the food per se, we were pleasantly surprised. Catherine's house-made granola with organic yogurt and dried fruit was hearty and complex.

It was a chilly morning, and I couldn't resist the idea of a warming plate of eggs benedict with bacon, spinach, fresh-baked biscuit, and béarnaise. Classic good times.

We polished off the cornmeal pancakes and fresh berries with ease. After breakfast Catherine surprised us with a hike. And so we made off across the green toward the bridge.

After soaking in the view, we needed a nap- or a coffee. Coffee won. We visited the revitalized Hayes Valley neighborhood's Blue Bottle Coffee outpost for a little cup of what-what.

Craving an afternoon sweet treat, Casey and I walked across the strangely utopian Patricia's Green to Miette for a macaron fix. Rose geranium, please.

Back at the homestead I mixed us pre-dinner happy hour drinks while we got ready for our dinner at Bar Tartine...

Murray Circle
601 Murray Cir. Sausalito, CA 94965; 415.339.4750

Blue Bottle Coffee
315 Linden St. San Francisco, CA 94102; 415.252.7535

Miette
449 Octavia St. San Francisco, CA 94102; 415.626.6221

Croquer: Bar Agricole

2011-12-10T14:38:00.000-08:00

Deciding where to dine in San Francisco stresses me out. In a city where everything is "good" sometimes finding "worthwhile" gets a little hectic.
Thank goodness for friends.
On my last trip, my lovely hosts informed me "we have reservations for brunch on Sunday at Bar Agricole." What a relief! Come Sunday we approached the closed gate, with a smattering of other trolling groups, hungry fire in their eyes. Open open open...

Beyond the gate, a spacious deck patio leads into an airy interior of high ceilings and concrete, warmed with worn wood and spectral skylight sculptures.

Denim napkins. I mean, so hip.

It was breakfast, so naturally I ordered a Scrimshaw pilsner. In a cute little glass.

Prized company. Casey and Catherine of Coffee Pencil Knife always know where to take me.

Of course Andy of the Wind Attack was along. We were skipping out on the Foodbuzz Blogger Fest's farewell brunch, and determined to trump it with the meal ahead.

We started with the buckwheat beignets with rum raisins and cream. These fluffy doughnuts melt in your mouth. Into it.

Keeping with the dessert first, the crêpe cake with persimmon was next. An impressive stack, brûléed to a satisfying crisp.

Casey was feeling Nordic, and feasted on King salmon gravlax with rye, roasted beets and horseradish. Gorgeous, and delicious.

Catherine's three scrambled eggs with leeks, rainbow chard, chives and chantrelles inspired. A scrambled egg is an art, and these fellows were golden perfection.

Neither Andy or I could resist the corned beef brisket with potato hash, a poached egg and mustard hollandaise, and were happy to not to have to share. Intensely awesome.

Oh, what's one more beer? They're tiny.

355 11th St. San Francisco, CA 94103; 415.355.9400
baragricole.com

Croquer: Starbelly

2011-12-07T19:50:00.000-08:00

Blind dates are funny.
Especially platonic ones (that spring from successful romantic ones).
While in San Francisco for Foodbuzz Blogger Fest, my new beau's best friend (who lives in the Mission) and I decided we should most definitely meet, if independently. She suggested lunch at Starbelly in the Castro. For some reason the name to me conjured pho or vegan fare. Thus I was happily surprised by the casual modern pub known best for their pizza.

Our server asked if this would be a boozy brunch. Laura and I exchanged a thin-lipped smile, before blurting out drink orders. Day drinking is nicely disguised with a little lemonade, so I went the shandy route. But Laura's spicy michelada was something serious. I was happy to learn right away that in addition to tending several bars in such a serious cocktail city Laura is also an aspiring blogger (goose!).

My weekend was to be filled with big meals, sampling rich gourmet products and boozing hard, so I voted for veggies and Laura heartily agreed. We started with the little gem caesar with avocado and buttery croutons and a side of broccoli tossed with garlic, chile and lemon. Despite their simplicity both dishes were pleasing and wholesome, and exactly what we wanted.

But this is a pizza place. We ordered a seasonal special, painted with black garlic puree and embellished with smooth ricotta, roasted butternut squash, fried sage and pine nuts. The thin toasty crust and mellow, warming flavors were perfect for a chilly afternoon respite. We devoured our slices, but not without a second beer cocktail. Our server said he was shocked to [over]hear this was our first meeting, and snapped our picture with Laura's camera. Of us, and an old Polaroid snapshot of our meeting-sake, of course.
The sun was starting to slowly disappear behind the townhouses of the Mission walking Laura back. She turned suddenly toward a storefront and I mistook it as a step toward a divey pizza joint. But I was ready to follow her in for another beer and slice. I suppose that makes a good first date - willingness to relive it. Or at least to try.

3583 16th St. San Francisco, CA 94114; 415.252.7500
starbellysf.com

Foodbuzz 24x24: A New Tradition

2011-11-27T14:42:00.000-08:00

Thanksgiving is the best holiday.
A celebration of the autumn bounty and togetherness... It's all so cozy and insular however that it can be easy to forget about those without a home, food, kith and kin.
Looking back on the past year, I am very thankful for the luxuries I've been afforded amongst friends, cooking meals, hosting events, and bringing people together. But there is a point when I have to question what else I could potentially be doing, bigger picture, to share with the community at large, outside of my social group.

Over the summer my friend Katie organized a volunteer "cooking club" one night to prepare a meal for the residents of the Downtown Women's Center in downtown Los Angeles. The DWC is an organization aiding the many needs of homeless women, serving as both a day center offering hot meals, showers, computers, phones, and case management, as well as 71 units of permanent supportive housing. The center has been a fixture in downtown since 1978 when founding director Jill Halverson offered a much needed respite to the man's world of Skid Row - its shelters, pantries and social services accessible only to men. Today, the DWC is nationally recognized as a prototype for programs striving to meet the unique needs of homeless women.

Preparing a meal that would feed 130 homeless and low income women that night was an amazing experience, and ever since I've been wanting to gather a group of my own to come to the center and cook a meal. And what better time than Thanksgiving to give back? Of all the food bloggers and culinarily-astute friends I have I didn't expect recruiting to be an issue.
Because budgets are tight and ingredients to cook for so many women can be costly, I submitted to Foodbuzz 24 x 24 and was so pleased that we were selected for their sponsorship. Now to organize a menu, and shop!

Collard greens. By the case. I suppose there's a first time for everything!

15 pounds of black-eyed peas: check.

(*Flair).

Heaviest cart I've ever pushed! I panicked a little how I'd store the perishables until the next day in my little fridge... Move over beer, I've got 30 pounds of chicken to get in there! (Ah, it's amazing the things you can accomplish with determination and a little elbow grease).

Day of! Katie, the DWC's volunteer coordinator welcomes us to the kitchen, and gives the group a little background about the center.

Hairnets on! Aprons tied! Hands washed!

Kristin The Cuisinerd harnesses her inner cafeteria lady and perfects her hairnet.

Our Menu

Oven-fried Chicken
Sweet Potato Fries
Collard Greens
Black-eyed Peas

We only had two hours in the DWC kitchen to complete our prep work. Clock ticking, I delegated tasks and everyone manned their work stations with good-natured dedication.

Popular lifestyle blogger H.C. of L.A. and O.C. Foodventures shows off his Nutty Professor apron, and mad chicken tender-making knife skills.

Teal tackling the collards, while Christine volunteered for the arduous task of sorting the peas...

Robin, our resident chicken man. Michael opted for sweet potato duty.

Project Collard: Complete.

Cat's laugh could be heard throughout the kitchen, and Alexis came all the way from Iowa to peel yams!

Kristin couldn't believe that 30 bunches of collards and 15 cartons of vegetable stock would fit in her cauldron.

Just like at Spago...

I couldn't have asked for a more enthusiastic, fun, and spirited group. We prepped a meal for 130 women in 2 hours flat, had everything labeled and in the walk-in for the following day's lunch service.
Before we parted, Katie lead us to the front of the building where Made, a new cafe/gift boutique run by the DWC was having a holiday reception. The beautiful space was created to "break the cycle of poverty and chronic unemployment by helping low-income and homeless women discover their talents and develop their skills through job readiness training and product development opportunities." The shop sells gift-ready homemade goods by DWC residents, such as vintage teacup candles, beaded ornaments, repurposed journals, and succulent arrangements. The cafe proudly serves Groundwork Coffee and prepared foods by Tiara Cafe (both also native to downtown). All proceeds go directly back into the DWC for job training and skills-building workshops. It felt SO good to get some early holiday shopping done there versus the Black Friday circuit. Highly recommended!

According to Katie the meal was a hit with the women, receiving rave reviews. While I think our group was confident about creating a good menu, what made me the most proud was how many people (almost everyone, really) thanked and told me how much they couldn't wait to come back and do this again, and soon!

If you want to find out more about organizing your own group or how to get involved as an individual, visit the DWC's volunteer page at http://dwcweb.org/volunteer.htm. And of course, the center has many holiday needs right now as they're giving each woman a personalized gift this season. To learn more about that, visit http://dwcweb.org/holidays/index.htm.
I urge those outside of Los Angeles to find an organization in your community that would benefit from a home-cooked meal. Food is love, fit to be shared.

Happy Thanksgiving!

Foodbuzzed: T-Flo Redux Dinner

2011-11-22T22:49:00.000-08:00

Foodbuzz Blogger Fest 2011 left lasting impressions in several forms, but Tyler Florence's "#T-Flo" Twitter trending during his cooking demo at the gala dinner may be the favorite of many attendees. While we waited, hungry for our first course, bloggers giggled at T-Flo's casual chatty demeanor, sensual relationship with his ingredients, and appreciation of steam. He whipped up cider-marinated pork chops, red cabbage, handmade spaetzle and mustard sauce before our eyes in minutes. We could smell it. We couldn't wait. We wanted it. We needed it.

Suffice to say we were not served T-Flo's mouth-watering Eastern European-inspired supper. (We got wedding steak). But that didn't stop Sabrina The Tomato Tart, Andy Windattack and I from trying our hand at his menu the evening Foodbuzz Fest came to a close. And dare I say largely improving it?!

Sabrina is one mad host. She even had enough frilly vintage aprons for everyone!
After our trip to Bi-Rite for all the goods, Mark of [No Recipes] came over to help. He didn't put on his apron though...

First thing's first, we got our Heritage Foods pork chops marinating in a bath of Samuel Smith's organic cider, brown sugar, salt, allspice berries and whole long pepper.

Red cabbage: Check.

Beer break! Sabrina produced a chilled bottle of honey ale from her cellar - perfect with the Bi-Rite pretzel I nabbed for a starter.

Not surprisingly, Andy had a vision for a delicious salad to start the meal of right.

Gorgeous persimmon, pomegranate, and paper-thin radishes bejeweled his citrus-kissed winter salad.

An Alsatian 2010 Domiane Roland Schmitt Sylvaner Grand A Petit Leon was a crisp and supple wine pairing with the salad (and might have been into the entree course, had we not finished the spritely bottle while cooking!)

Handmade spaetzle? Yawn. We decided stinging nettles might amp up this dish. Nettle spaetzle? What sounds cooler than that? Mark volunteered for the dangerous task and helped whip up a killer dough.

Many kitchen tools were tested for spaetzle-making ability, but a simple dough scraper and utility knife won. The technique is what took the most time...

We rendered pancetta fat to lightly fry the fluffy boiled spaetzle in for added crispness and flavor.

We couldn't leave dessert out of our Germanic feast. As the cool autumn air was settling into the bay, warm apple pie was the clear solution. Sabrina was all over it.

Would T-Flo approve of basic apple pie? Perhaps... But we wouldn't. I suggested adding some dimension with crumbles of pork sausage, and naturally cheese came up next. Aged white cheddar, pile it on!

Andy plates while bloggers document. Just another day...

Behold: Our cider-marinated pork chop, pickled red cabbage and fennel kraut, parsnip & sunchoke mashers, fried nettle spaetzle, and creamy yogurt mustard sauce.

We enjoyed the meal with a 2009 Van Volxem Saar Riesling, a delightfully dry fruity German wine, and perfect blind date.

The pie was a delicious brunch-for-dessert disguised treat, gussied up with a scoop of Bi-Rite Maple Walnut ice cream. The table was split in favor of the sausage, but in the end everyone's plate was clean.

Groggy from the long Foodbuzz weekend, hours of cooking, glasses of wine, and hermitage from the cold outside beyond the steamy window, we sat, admiring our tablescape with gratuitous irony sharing laughs. You're right T-Flo, spaetzle is the new black. But what's the new nettle?

Foodbuzz Blogger Fest 2011

2011-11-22T21:28:00.000-08:00

It's a little nutty to look back on the past year and everything that's occurred since my first Foobuzz Blogger Fest in San Francisco. A chance meeting on the street outside the hotel lead to my fast friendship with Andy of the Windattack, and also an introduction to Greg of Sippitysup at the kick-off event. Who knew we'd have a podcast together several months later?? On Joy the Baker's network, no less! This demonstrates that while Foodbuzz Blogger Fest has a lot to do with food and blogging, it has way more to do with casual, social, and fun networking. I approached 2011's fest with a renewed set of expectations, mostly modest set on simply meeting and talking with great people.

Buddies Andy Windattack and Sabrina The Tomato Tart strike a pose.

The kick-off party this year was off to a roaring start before I'd finished my first glass of wine. I enjoyed a lovely conversation with the reps from Bonny Doon Vineyard over a lambent glass of their 2010 ¿Querry? Apple/Pear/Quince Hard Sparkling Cider (Delish! And perfect for your Turkey Day). The smorgasbord sampling buffet was topped off with classy immaculate sweet bites by Yigit Pura. A delightful way to finish a festive evening reuniting with friends.

Boat Street Pickles' tangy figs at the Foodzie table.

Saturday's Taste Pavilion offered an intimidating amount to sample, so I zeroed in on the good stuff, and surprised myself by occasionally coming back for seconds. I spent a little too much time at Redwood Hill Farm and Bellweather Farms' tables shoveling goat, cow, and sheep's milk cheeses. I washed the cheese down with drinking chocolate and coins of Tcho's spectrum of cocoa products. Cross-pollinating makes everything more exciting, so I asked House of Balsamic (my favorite) to drizzle their apple balsamic vinegar on my Three Twins Organic vanilla ice cream. Brilliant!

There was plenty to drink and it couldn't have made me happier! New to me was Bloom Gin, a premium London Dry Gin with lush floral notes of chamomile, pomelo and honeysuckle. My favorite non-alcoholic delight was the super dry California Brut flavor of the popular Vignette Wine Country Soda. 21st Amendment did it again (their Fireside Chat and Hell of High Watermelon won me over last year) with their newest ale Allies Win The War, a collaboration with Eugene, OR's Ninkasi Brewery. The earthy ale is brewed with dates, lending it a kiss of mellow sweetness. I ended the afternoon getting up close and personal with the Skyy portfolio of brands, including Espolon Tequila, Campari, Wild Turkey and Frangelico... and watching the determination to make them all work together in one cup. Witness the boozy horchata and tequila-based cocktail below, made pink by a splash of Campari...

Greg of SippitySup getting TikiBuzzed.

I probably should have taken a cocktail break, but kept calm and carried on to The Tonga Room to co-host The Table Set's TikiBuzz Happy Hour! We met some listeners and shared wonderfully potent potables with our new friends.

Our gala dinner was set in the bowels of the Grand Hyatt, with an exhibition kitchen worthy of Iron Chef helming the banquet room. Tyler Florence (quickly dubbed #T-Flo by FoodBuzzards on Twitter) demoed a lovely Eastern European-inspired meal, whilst a very different menu was being plated for us backstage.

A butter lettuce salad kit.

Pro photo tip: Candle Saucer bounce!

Kristin The Cuisinerd, ready for meat!

I lucked out sitting with a pretty amazing table really of some of the best bloggers out there. We brandished knives. We awaited delicious food. We spoke of the T-Flo.

Josie from Day Dreamer Desserts and Trevor of Sis. Boom. [Blog]

Andy, not letting his meal cramp his swagger.

Wedding steak surf n' turf does not a T-Flo cider-marinated pork chop make.

Joy the Baker contemplates the intention of her bulgar wheat and braised leek entree.

After a lackluster dessert our table retreated to the top floor of the hotel for liquid dessert, but the bar was a little TOO hopping. Forced to hang at the fringes we couldn't help but notice an open back door to a similarly lackluster wedding reception. Evil comes in many forms, and after an unsatisfactory meal, beware the mind of a foodbuzzed blogger. I won't elaborate, but maybe the reception was crashed by a flash mob, and maybe there was an animated conga line, and maybe their guest book ended up with a few extra John Hancocks. But I couldn't be sure about any of that.

Tracy Shutterbean and Stephanie of Lick My Spoon: total conspirators!

Strolling back to the apartment I smiled at the crisp San Francisco night. Another year! So many accomplishments and yet so much inspiration still untapped. What fruits might the coming year produce? How will the unexpected surprise? And how will I look back at it all this time next year? Well friend, I suppose time will tell.

The Table Set Invades the Bay *Hawaiian Shirts Included

2011-11-02T17:48:00.000-07:00

This weekend The Table Set are packing our bags and heading north to San Francisco for the 3rd annual Foodbuzz Blogger Festival. As if three days of killer food, flowing adult beverages, old friends and new friends aren't enough... Greg, Andy and I are throwing our first ever Table Set bash outside of Los Angeles, a Happy Hour meet and greet at the legendary Tonga Room in the Fairmont Hotel!
We are no strangers to all that is tiki, and can't wait to meet all of you over a cocktail umbrella... So much so that the first 10 listeners to show up will get a Zombie on us! So be prompt, friends!

Check out the flyer below for all the deets...
And if you aren't in the Bay or able to imbibe with us on Saturday, listen to our festive tiki episode and soak in the sun the old fashioned virtual way!

Buvare: Witching Hour Cocktail

2011-10-18T19:13:00.000-07:00

Halloween is easily my favorite time of year. Crisp autumn air, harvest flavors, and a palpable childlike excitement. On the Table Set this week we're discussing our favorite Halloween parties past, spooky new ideas, and of course what kind of booze is the scariest to serve your house ghouls. While overall we decided moonshine was a pretty badass spirit for All Hallows Eve cocktails and punches, we also pondered making a pumpkin-infused bourbon for the purpose of a layered "candy corn" shot (lowbrow/highbrow! Classic ChocoMeat). The layering didn't quite pan out... but I took the ingredients I was working with and instead made a refined cocktail for more sophisticated costume parties to toast the night with. I had to include Strega (which means 'witch' in Italian), a bright yellow Italian herbal liqueur possessing a complex structure with fennel, mint and coniferous notes. I rounded the cocktail out with Royal Combier, a blend of Combier’s original triple sec, cognac and Elixir de Combier (a 19th century French hygienic liqueur which includes aloe, nutmeg, myrrh, cardamom, cinnamon and saffron).

Witching Hour

2 oz Pumpkin Bourbon*
1/4 oz Strega
1/2 oz Royal Combier
dash Fee Brothers Aztec Chocolate Bitters

Combine all ingredients in a stirring glass over ice. Stir until chilled and [double] strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with freshly grated nutmeg and a flamed orange peel.

*Pumpkin Bourbon

1 bottle of decent Bourbon, such as Bulleit
1 sugar pumpkin, hollowed, peeled, and sliced
1 vanilla bean
1/2 of a whole nutmeg

Cut 1 vanilla bean in half lengthwise. In a 1- to 1 1/2-quart jar, combine vanilla, pumpkin slices, and nutmeg. Cover with Bourbon (saving empty Bourbon bottle). Seal jar and rest at least 4 days or up to 3 months in a cool, dark place. Once desired flavor intensity is achieved, strain liquid through cheesecloth and funnel back into Bourbon bottle.

Happy Haunting!

Buvare: One-Eyed Gypsy

2011-10-06T17:55:00.000-07:00

Perched on the edge of the LA river just east of Downtown, one of the oldest running bars in the city's history is changing its sign once more. You may have visited the Bordello in the past couple of years, a tawdry den festooned with beaded curtains and red light, an homage to the building's roots (the second floor originally housed a brothel). Or perhaps some time back you watched a band play at Little Pedro's, another prior appellation.
"A man who used to bartend here in the seventies came in, told us they used to pry .45s out of the bar - that's how old this place is," a wide-eyed bartender with a sly smile told me, sliding a gold-rimmed glass of punch my way.
Clearly history is omnipresent in the new incarnation of the bar, a gilded sideshow rightfully called One-Eyed Gypsy.

Opening Friday, the space was redesigned by visionary Dana Hollister (Villains Tavern, Cliff's Edge) and reads like a valentine to a sword swallower. The massive bar plays center stage, braced with gold-framed mirrors, busts and statues. Circus-like curtains are drawn about a cabaret stage - only to be raised for any number of off-beat entertainer, be it magician, singer, or fire eater. Candles flicker. Chandeliers drip with Bedouin jewelry imported from Egypt. Functioning fortune telling machines flash their weathered boardwalk bulbs.

Two working skee-ball lanes and a massive stuffed yak prove Odalisque designer Hollister isn't not messing around on this one. Not to mention the Medusa wallpaper was custom designed and coffee-stained by hand.

But Hollister's goal, tricks aside, is to create a real neighborhood bar with the Gypsy.
So what about the potables? The Surley Sailor is a tastier grog than the sum of its parts (Gosling's Dark Rum, white rum, 151, blackberries, fresh pineapple, lime), but I preferred The Riddler's Punch, a refreshingly dry sangria with Haute Vodka, Cabernet, fresh fruit & citrus juices. A selection of "Cheap Dates" run only $8, including Gypsy Juice, a sexy hippie sipper of Plymouth Gin, citrus, sloe gin & hard apple cider.

I nibbled on selections from the menu's twisted county fair fare, such as sweet potato tots and bbq pork & jalapeño pizza, while the same eccentric barmaid spun tales of "ghostly white woman" who used to walk the halls upstairs (before an earthquake in the eighties leveled that story).

"Tell yours, Dave!" she called to bar manager Dave Young, who reticently recounted a day when he was stocking the bar and a voice behind him softly said his name, only to find he was in fact all alone. I saw the bartender's eyes shift to the woman behind Dave.

"Oh, hey - Are you the psychic?"

901 E. 1st St., Downtown LA 90012
One-Eyed Gypsy

Homefries U!

2011-10-04T19:47:00.000-07:00

If these ladies look like they're up to something... That's because they are.

Joy the Baker and Tracy Shutterbean Benjamin are the stars of the Joy the Baker Podcast on a little network I sometimes talk about called Homefries. They like to have fun, talk about doughnuts, relationships, cookies, travel, sticky buns, and wombats. But what if for one weekend they could [literally] share the fun with their listeners?

One house in Palm Springs, some help from some friends, and a freezer full of ice cream later and Homefries U was totally in session!

Guests were greeted Friday night with - what else? Punch! I made up this batch of deliciousness with Krupnik Honey Liqueur, Dolin Blanc vermouth, fresh lemon juice, soda, Fee's Plum Bitters and a healthy dose of Cava Brut. Yowza!

Joy and Tracy made everyone addictively edible soup for dinner - vegan coconut carrot ginger heaven or chunky delish tomato situation. Winners.

After dinner there was, well, more punch to finish! And nails to paint. That's right. Not your average food blogger gathering. SEO? What's that, a sparkly blue?

Morning meant coffee cake, choco-studded banana bread, fresh fruit and lots of coffee.

An informative photo workshop led into the really good stuff - A brunch cooking demo. Joy and Tracy worked out a killer how-to brunch menu from A to Z. Then we ate it, of course.

Frittata time. Tracy doesn't mess around with bell peppers. Lady's got skills.

Breakfast pizza: the way into any sane person's heart.

After brunch everyone took a break for fizzy cucumber spritzers and pool time. Even Joy!

Craft hour included making herbal and fruit sugar infusions. And friendship bracelets. What else?

Happy hour is when things started getting REAL. Spiced nuts, cured salumi, and fresh-popped corn whet everyone's palate for a LOT of booze tasting.

Whitney from The Crush came out to teach everyone how to be a sexy sparkling wine dilettante in four tasty steps. And a frugal one at that, each wine is available for under $20 at DomaineLA.

Trust me, Whitney knows her stuff. And this Grotta del Sole Gragnano rules.

Cocktail time! Still a little loopy from the bubbles, I wasted little time getting everyone in a tizzy about one of my favorite and oft misunderstood spirits - Gin.

And you really can't talk about the history of gin without addressing its grandaddy, Dutch Genever, a malty juniper spirit back on the market thanks to Lucas Bols, the oldest Dutch distillery still in production. A distilled malt wine, Genever resembles a malt Scotch or white whiskey more than gin, and is great on its own, sipped out of a tulip glass alongside a beer (the traditional way) or mixed in an old-fashioned.

We also talked about London Dry, Plymouth, and New American styles of gin. And you can't leave out Hendrick's. If anything will convert a room of skeptics, a chilled sip of Scottish Hendrick's Gin with a cucumber slice does the trick. To lead into dinner we mixed up a bevy of Aviation cocktails with Plymouth Gin, the most winning of the pack.

What would a Sunday morning be without doughnuts? Joy and Tracy couldn't disappoint, and absolutely did not with their chocolate glazed and powdered perfect confections. (Not kidding, this chocolate doughnut was the best I've EVER had. EVER, people!)

After breaky, Tracy raided the spice rack for a expose on the real what's what and when to use it.

And what would a "conference" be without gift bags and a raffle? We wrapped up some goodies for our new friends so they could relive the best weekend ever once they got home. But the Real Housewives DVDs? Those were Joy's, sorry y'all.

Keep an eye out in early 2012 for Homefries U Spring Break! We're just getting started...

Homefries.com

Buvare: Tiki Ti +

2011-09-09T16:24:00.000-07:00

The Table Set has already led to some super fun conversation topics... How to sneak a bar in your luggage, cooking an ostrich egg, octopus for breakfast, and if it's OK to wine and dine.. yourself. (Of course it is).
But the most gratifying topic for me so far has been this week's Tiki episode. Tiki has long been a passion of mine, seeded by Disneyland, but really warming up a decade ago bartending an annual summer tiki party thrown by my parents in our backyard (complete with Kalua Pig), and being of age to enter Tucson's infamous Kon Tiki.

As part of our "research" for this podcast episode, Greg, Andy and I decided we really must meet up for happy hour at the second happiest place on earth, Los Feliz's legendary Tiki Ti.

Opened in 1961 by Ray Buhen, a former bartender at the original tiki bar Don the Beachcomber in Hollywood, the Tiki Ti has remained a family legacy, still run Mike Sr. (below) and Mike Jr. Buhen. A tried and true relic, Tiki Ti has outlasted all of its kind in Hollywood and is an worldwide icon - and the closest taste one can get today to Don's original "Rum Rhapsodies."

Can't decide between the 90 tropical drinks on menu? Leave it up to the fate of the wheel! Andy did!

I started proper with a bracing, scurvy-fighting Navy Grog.

Greg survived the Blood and Sand, poured to the chants of "Toro! Toro! Toro!" from the bar.

Round two: Three Mai Tais, please (the real kind!).

As further research for this podcast episode, Greg gained us access to a private home tiki bar built from scratch in an Echo Park basement. I literally almost fell over when we walked inside. It is basically the culmination of all that is tiki holy. Andy put together this video about our experience.

Curious what drink I made? Well that friends would be a Jumbee Bumbo. A whosit? Yep. Naming a tiki drink is a bit like trying to land a domain name. It's probably taken, or ridiculous. But I think this name fits the stormy, spicy, potent punch well. A Jumbee is a malevolent mythological spirit in the folklore of some Caribbean countries, mostly in the Lesser Antilles. Bumbo was a popular potable in the Caribbean during the era of piracy largely because it tasted better than the Royal Navy's Grog, a classic punch of rum, water, sugar, and nutmeg.So... basically it be Ghost Grog!

Jumbee Bumbo

1 oz Mount Gay Eclipse Barbados Rum
1 oz Kraken Black Spiced Rum
1/2 oz orgeat
1/2 oz Velvet Falernum
1 oz fresh lime juice
1/2 oz fresh orange juice
1 barspoon hibiscus syrup*
cinnamon stick
nutmeg

Combine liquids in a cocktail shaker over ice. Crack the cinnamon stick and add. Shake and double strain into an old-fashioned glass or tiki mug filled with crushed ice. Dust with fresh grated nutmeg and garnish with shaved orange peel. And a blue maraschino cherry should you have one!

*For hibiscus syrup, stir equal parts evaporated cane juice (or sugar) and water over moderate heat until dissolved. Remove from heat, add dried hibiscus blossoms and cover for 10 minutes. Strain and cool. Keep in the refrigerator.

Listen to the Table Set talk TIKI here!
Download and subscribe on iTunes

Gala Parfait: Pool Party

2011-09-08T15:48:00.000-07:00

I've never been good at juggling.
At some point I guess I just stopped trying because after bruising so much fruit, I thought hey better to just eat this apple.
But in life I grew pretty adept at it. An over-achieving high school student who opted for a full college course load plus three jobs, sometimes a band... to a full-time career, a food blog, busy lifestyle... and sometimes a band. But age and energy are funny things. I remember when five hours of sleep was enough, and hangovers lasted but a few pesky morning hours. I recall lightning quick reflexes and prose that spilt from the pen with ease.

You may have noticed the Chocolate of Meats lightening in load. I suppose that's natural. Sure, life gets in the way sometimes, but also it's become a saturated market - The numbers don't tug at my conscience to use this forum to keep my public up to date with every happening about town (but that's what Twitter is for, right?). I enjoy it when I can, or when the experience rings with a truth I am called to share. I'm looking at blogger responsibility in a new light.

So back to juggling. If you follow ChocoMeat then you've also probably noticed me increasingly mention my podcast The Table Set with Greg of Sippitysup and Andy of Wind Attack. We were invited to participate in this venture by the venerable Joy the Baker, which in all honesty is when I threw out the analytics and stopped questioning whether I had something to offer the world or not. Of course I did, and no longer just through my bourbon-stained blog. Thank you, Homefries.

The point of all of this, really, was to express that The Table Set has been allowing me to explore ChocoMeat's interests on a larger scale. Now once a week I get to talk about parties. Thoughtful entertaining, from small to large scale. Creating experiences. And of course what drink to pair it all with.

Our premiere podcast was about throwing a winning pool party. So when we discussed actually throwing a first-ever Table Set event to tie up summer, what better way?? Check it out.

For the party, I whipped up this version of the San Francisco prohibition classic Pisco Punch, made by infusing Pisco (a strong Peruvian spirit made from distilling fermented grapes) with fresh pineapple in place of traditional pineapple gum syrup. While you can discard the pineapple after infusing the Pisco, if you want a REAL party, toss them in the punch bowl like I did. Just warn your guests!

Pisco Punch
Adapted from Audrey Saunders of Pegu Club via New York Magazine

2 (750-ml) bottles of pisco capel
2 pineapples
4 limes, zested
32 oz simple syrup, chilled
2 white grapefruit
32 oz fresh lemon juice
2 l club soda
mint sprigs for garnish, optional
fresh hibiscus blossoms for garnish, optional

Make the pineapple Pisco: Cut pineapple into 1/2-inch chunks, and put into a large covered jar. Add the Pisco. Cover, shake to agitate, and refrigerate for 3 days.
Make the lime syrup: Add the lime zest to 16 ounces of cold simple syrup. Cover, shake to agitate, and refrigerate for 24 hours. Strain away zest and store in refrigerator.
Make the grapefruit syrup: Add the grapefruit zest to remaining 16 ounces of cold simple syrup. Cover, shake to agitate, and refrigerate for 24 hours. Strain away zest and store in refrigerator.
Make the punch: In large bowl, combine pineapple infused Pisco and all of the pineapple chunks, lime syrup, grapefruit syrup, and lemon juice. Refrigerate for at least 3 hours. Pour in the club soda and add a large ice block into bowl just before serving. Garnish with mint sprigs and fresh hibiscus blossoms.

Listen to the Table Set here!
Download and subscribe on iTunes

Buvare: A Weekend of Craft Beer, Cigars & Spirits

2011-08-09T18:55:00.000-07:00

It's looking like a boozy weekend for me...

This Friday sees the first in a series of premiere spirits tastings from Club CST (Cigar and Spirits Tasting), a new spirits and cigar community and media property. The Club CST distillers and partners will be showing off their products and educating guests by sampling over 30 different spirits at the First Annual Club CST Orange County event. Several brands will walk away with a Best in Show Award from our panel of tasters. Complementary appetizers will be served all day and evening (thank goodness).

Spirits, beverages and distributors featured in the First Annual Club CST Orange County event include Adult Chocolate Milk; Bend Distillery; Buffalo Trace Bourbon; Blanton's Bourbon; Capaz Tequila; Faretti Biscotti Famosi Liqueur; Farmer’s Organic Gin; Finian’s Whiskey; Martí Rum; Sambuca di Trevi; Ciroc Vodka; Comasorio Tequila; Corazon Tequila; Don Cuco Sotol; Eagle Rare Bourbon; El Gran Juielo Tequila; Elmer T. Lee Bourbon; Firefly Vodka; Jarro Viejo Tequila; McCormick Distilling / 360 Vodka; Nude Vodka; Pura Vida Tequila; Rain Organic Vodka; Tequila 55; Tequila 7 (Siete) Leguas; Tito’s Homemade Vodka and more. The event also features a sampling of Ventura Cigar Company’s "Pura Sangre” brand cigars and KreTek cigars.

When: Friday, August 12th, 2011 from 3pm to 10pm
Where: The Hyatt Regency in Newport Beach, CA
Get Tickets Here, or call (949)716-5156.
($99 per ticket. No tickets will be sold at the door, purchase in advance only).
cigarandspirits.com

The second annual LA Craft Beer Crawl takes place on Saturday August 13th benefiting the Heal the Bay charity. Attendees will have well over 50 craft beers to sample across seven different bars and restaurants all within close proximity in Downtown Los Angeles. The event is a collaboration between Cedd Moses of 213 Ventures and Hallie Beaune and Christina Perozzi also known as The Beer Chicks, beer personalities and authors of The Naked Pint: An Unadulterated Guide to Craft Beer. The event will feature some of the top Craft and Artisanal Brewers in the Country, including: Allagash; Ballast Point; The Bruery; Bootlegger's; Brouwerij West; Cismontane; Craftsman; Drake's; Deschutes; Duvel; Eagle Rock; Firestone; Ladyface; Lost Coast; Moylan's; Maui Brewing co.; New Belgium; Nibble Bit Tabby; Noble Aleworks; North Coast Brewing; Ommegang; Sierra Nevada; Stone; Strand; Taps; Uncommon and more. Host of Good Food on KCRW Evan Kleiman will curate a fleet of food trucks to be stationed along the crawl route to soak up the suds.

When: Saturday, August 13th, 2011 from 3pm to 8pm
Where: 7 DTLA bars (Seven Grand; Golden Gopher; Broadway Bar; Casey's Irish Pub; Cole's Red Car Bar and The Varnish; Las Perlas; Caña Rum Bar; and Tony's Saloon).
Get Tickets Here
($49 for General Admission. VIP tickets have sold out).
lacraftbeercrawl.com

Buvare: Downtown LA Punch Crawl

2011-07-25T23:48:00.000-07:00

It's a word that means different things to different people.
For some, merely a sugar-coated mouth stain from a syrupy can.
Others, a kitschy kid's party concoction of sherbet and ginger ale. Or a refreshment grail to taint with an incognito liquor source.
And for me, punch is practically a religion.

In recent years antique silver punch bowls have been seen appearing on formidable bar tops around the world, a rediscovered gem of cocktillian culture crowned last year by David Wondrich's epic titled, aptly, Punch. Falling in line with the reemergence of Bols Genever, Thrillist LA recently threw the smartest little tastemaking party I could hope to dream up: A downtown LA punch crawl of some of the cities finest drinkeries, each creating a perfect punch for the brutishly elegant genever. With a walkable map and a steal of a ticket price there was no question. I was getting tipsy. On a school night.

Check in was at Cole's, and with a punch station right inside the front door no time was wasted.

Apparently we were starting with dessert. Not at all a problem for a versatile imbiber such as myself. Peach Cobbler Punch, they called it. A secret concoction (secret because it may yet appear on the restaurant's drink menu) involving peaches, cinnamon simple syrup, angostura bitters, and Bols Genever, of course. Served alongside a bite of actual cobbler, the impressive feat of the punch was the clear representation of buttery crust in its profile.

Not so much hidden anymore but still a treasure is the Varnish, LA's favorite "speakeasy" tucked in the back of Cole's - A convenient and economical second stop.

The ante was not surprisingly raised here with the cheekily named Dutch Pugilist Punch; A simple and pure preparation made with care and quality ingredients. As it was described, they started by making a lemon sugar. Then fresh lemon and orange juices were added along with Angosturo bitters. The final act introduced homemade grenadine, Bols Genever, and soda water. The result was strong but crisp, drinkable and refreshing. Really the definition of punch.
The smart guys at the Varnish took the opportunity to plug their table-side punch service, available Sunday - Thursday by call-ahead pre-order for $100, and serving roughly 8 people. Slick.

Several blocks away through summer evening light (rather harsh even at 8pm following the potent darkness of the Varnish) we arrived at the Falls for #3: The Flowing Bols. The bartender wracked his brain to recall the full ingredient list, but included Bols Genever, cherry heering, fresh pineapple, lemon & orange juices, raspberry syrup, and soda. The spritziest of the night, this fruity number was well suited for the warm evening. It recalled the prom night archetype in character, but redeemed itself in well-roundness. And after this one, I was officially drunk.

Good time for the longest walk between venues, and for an outdoor venue at dusk, on the patio at Drago Centro, downtown's luxurious powerhouse.

A man in a suit welcomed us beside a crystal punch bowl and a fleet of Champagne coupes, busboys in pressed linen flying past. Class act. I had to ask him to repeat the punch description slower, it was bursting ballasts in my brain. This paragon imbued Bols Genever, Aperol, Galliano, Mirto (a myrtleberry liqueur), Scotch, orange, lemon & pomegranite juices, green tea, and nasturtium blossoms. It was called Pompeii Punch. The flavor profile was far less scattered than the sum of its parts, and drank as elegantly as a fine-tuned classic cocktail. Earth, smoke, flora and a clear Italian P.O.V. were crystalline. Definitely my favorite. I bowed, and snagged a slice of pizza as I did.

Eventually night caught up with us, and thank goodness before we arrived at Caña Rum Bar - A hideaway that just wouldn't be as sexy by day. A member's only club that curiously welcomes newcomers, this was actually my first time (finally!) passing through the velvet curtain. Plenty of rum and cigar smoke awaited.

Here the well-meaning and sultry punch took a back seat to an impressive drink menu. Still, we enjoyed the Panamanian Detective, with Bols Genever, fresh guava, Averna & lime juice.

But we also stayed for a sampling of their real strengths! With incredibly warm service and a menu chock-full of laugh-out-loud descriptors and drink categories, Caña earned some extra bones. How could I turn down the Tennessee Isle? "This is what a Sazerac would taste like if the wicked witch of the west overtook Kansas and sent Tennessee to the Caribbean via flying monkey". Prichard’s Fine Rum married with overripe mango-infused absinthe and coconut Peychaud’s bitters. Hell yes. Aromatic bliss.

I think I kind of purposely saved the best for last. I have a mad crush on Bar | Kitchen in downtown's O Hotel. It's the kind of studly joint LA just didn't have before a few years ago, and with an expat genius bar (get it?) hailing from Death + Company in NYC, how can I not drool?? Even more exciting, one of the more recent additions to the bar team is an old pal from Portland who once turned me on to muddled kiwi and gin (trust me, just try it).

Because we once shared our love for sherry, I was not surprised that this bar featuring the handiwork of mister Alex Day employed Amontillado sherry in their Vondelpark Punch, along with Bols Genever, grapefruit & lime juices, ginger syrup, and soda water. And it was time to sit down.

To soak up the genever, a late night dinner was definitely in order. The crispy fried green tomatoes with spicy lump crab, sweet pepper, and corn relish saved my life. Perfection.

To ensure a hangover-less morning, the creamy shrimp & grits with Spanish chorizo ragout conquered. A exclamation point at the end of a long line of luxury for one evening. The bar began to close down, but I think I sat and stared at the hotel lobby's fire for some time before being reminded that I, in fact, did have to go home, and that this lobby wasn't it.
Which reminds me again to commend Thrillist for a full evening of awesomeness that did not require driving between locations. Safe, happy, delicious.
A lil' bit of heaven on earth.

Carnish Culture: Levi's Presents Big Night

2011-07-19T23:14:00.000-07:00

If you are a frequent ChocoMeat reader then you've probably noticed my recent posts about the Levi's Film Workshop inside the Geffen Contemporary at MOCA and this past month's extensive FOOD X FILM programming all over town. This past Thursday saw the culmination of the food/art/film/music awesomeness with the live premiere of the three short films that were created entirely during the run, each focusing on a different aspect of the local food movement: Growing, Preparing, and Serving.

To illustrate these points, notable filmmakers were matched with food world heavyweights, and with the help of class participants at the Workshop produced the following films, available now to view online. Enjoy!

GROWING: Wild Goodness from Levi's Film Workshop on Vimeo.
Art in the Streets associate curator Aaron Rose and acclaimed music supervisor Randall Poster celebrate the Margaret Kilgallen Memorial Farm (built outside the Workshop at MOCA), a site-specific edible “bike farm” that includes organic fruit and vegetables and utilizes a combination of traditional planter boxes and mobile planters on bikes. The farm was designed by San Francisco-based artists Futurefarmers and is tended by Tara Kolla of Silver Lake Farms.

PREPARING: The Sound of Heat from Levi's Film Workshop on Vimeo.
Italian-filmmaker Lorenzo Fonda focuses on Chef Ludo Lefebvre’s experimental cooking and the unusual – but delicious – dishes that have resulted.

SERVING: Feast of Fury from Levi's Film Workshop on Vimeo.
Director Dugan O’Neal and traveling LA landmark Kogi BBQ truck team up to create an action-packed short film, about serving high-end food on a budget.

Gala Parfait: Octo-Q

2011-07-11T23:53:00.000-07:00

One byproduct of co-hosting The Table Set that I'm really enjoying is that - as it is a podcast about entertaining - I am hosting gatherings more than ever! I recently co-hosted one of my favorite bashes to date, and forged a new friendship with an old familiar face.

Some things are just fated. Natalie and I went to art school together in Eugene, Oregon, but didn't really know each other. When I waited tables at Portland's uppity Pearl District hot spot Bluehour I recognized Natalie dining with the PICA and Wieden+Kennedy power lunchers. (I later found out Natalie too had worked at the restaurant before me). Five years later, I discover that we are both working on flip sides making a DEVO record in Los Angeles. We couldn't ignore this any longer. We joined forces. A barbecue on Natalie's Hollywood Hills deck was decided upon almost immediately. A blending of our friends; food lovers, art lovers, and music lovers... But what would we serve?

Ever since Natalie's recent trip to Chile she told me she's been obsessed with finding out how to make octopus tender and flavorful like she had tasted there. What she knew was that barbecuing is part of the secret. The proposal: An octopus BBQ?! Obviously I was down for the challenge, so we started to brainstorm the plan. Octopod culinary research went underway. A smoker was purchased and assembled. In the meantime I whipped up an invite to encapsulate the vibe. Natalie only has a turntable, so we would ask guests to bring a record. Other secret surprises were concocted.

Like any proper party, we needed to conceptualize a cocktail that would stand up to the smokey char of a crispy tentacle. Natalie brilliantly suggested the inclusion of smoked ice(!) Several tests on her part found that smoking water over cherry/mesquite wood and then freezing it produced subtly satisfactory results. In the spirit of the wood we ran with cherries and I made a brandied batch to muddle with orange in a Smokey Cherry Old Fashioned.

Macerating the cherries before tossing with hot water and submerging in Brandy.

The afternoon of the party, I was led up the steps to Natalie's deck by the scent of tantalizing smoke. Crows were eying the smoker, cawing at me as I approached the house. Inside I could hear a commotion. "Hello?..." I called stepping gently toward her open door, like a marked slasher victim. The grisly scene I walked into was not what I expected.

Whack. Whack. Whack. It takes 99 from a hammer to properly tenderize an octopus, they say. Natalie was just finishing up, and wiped her brow following the workout. The beast beneath her was HUGE, and the gravity of our endeavor finally sank in. "WOW," was all I could say.

The marinated creature went in a boiling pot next, where it began to reanimate and coil about in the simmering liquid. Then Natalie took a blade to it and carved it up for the grill.

Out back she gave me a peek of the little guys she had jerkifying in the smoker, spicy marinated buggers peppered with crackling chilies. While she breaked for costume change, I set up the bar.

Sure, our guest list had grown (and still was unbeknownst to us), but Natalie insisted on china and silver (bless her!) We set the table for... 15 or so, with a back-up stack of plates on the sideboard.

Our first guest arrived, which meant records, and cocktails! To have enough glasses for all, I picked up a couple crates of Kerr half pint wide-mouth mason jars, which make a pretty swell old fashioned tumbler. (Naturally I failed to photograph a finished cocktail, I was too busy cranking them out!)

The Smokey Cherry Old Fashioneds and a lovely contribution of cheese and salumi from one guest busied our happy hour revelers while we continued to ready for the main event.

We plucked the jerked octis from the smoker and joined the table with the tasty dishes our guests provided.

Michael's spicy shrimp were a hit. Luckily some cucumbers were handy to quell the heat.

The spread of vegetables was staggering... From kale salad to watermelon n' feta to spiced potatoes to fiery Sriracha slaw. I made two salads - One of chickpeas, chorizo, and arugula, and another of radicchio, Italian parsley, apricots and shaved fennel with a minty olive vinaigrette.

Natalie stood watch at the grill, turning the big boy's legs.

The flavor was robust and delicious. "Next time more char," Natalie said, tugging at the outer skin. Regardless, everyone waited with patient curiosity while I sawed the leggies into medallions.

What to drink with grilled octopi? Well I leave that to the experts. Luckily Whitney of Brunellos Have More Fun and DomaineLA was present with a few fitting bottles. My favorite was La Dilettante, Domaine Breton‘s 2009 Vouvray moustillant. A delicious crisp chenin blanc with light, moussey bubbles.

"Hey, that's from the store!" Whitney called at another guest's contribution of Causse Marines Marcillac, a... funky, earthy, inky red. Joy the Baker's fabulous peach & blackberry cobbler dessert (gobbled up before it was photographed) was geniously paired by Whitney with a Frantz Saumon Gamay Moelleux, a sexy, lingering yet tangy pomegrante, strawberry and pine masterpiece. (Read Whitney's account of the BBQ here).

But the cherry on top was our secret surprise guest, Luz Elena Mendoza, singer of Portland's beloved Y La Bamba. She graced the hushed patio with a short set of passionate arias ripe with duende.

Come dusk, we walked up the hill to a nearby viewing point and sat with circling ravens, watching as the sun sunk into the ocean. The way every perfect summer dinner party really should come to a close.

For those hoping for some more in depth octopus cooking tips, here are Natalie's four simple steps to making killer tentacles at home!

Just do it.

Carnish Culture: Levi's Presents The Hunger: Food X Film

2011-07-01T20:55:00.000-07:00

It's Wednesday night at Fairfax Village's Cinefamily at the Silent Movie Theater and Suzanne Goin (acclaimed chef of A.O.C., Lucques) is presenting Cesar, the 1936 film that inspired Alice Waters to name two of her restaurants after its characters. Denizens of Kogi's curbsides watch as filmmaker Dugan O'Neal films the food truck kingpin serve its preeminent vendible. On Saturday San Francisco art collective Futurefarmers built an edible modular memorial garden for Margaret Kilgallen outside of MOCA's Geffen Contemporary using reclaimed bikes as its structure, all of which will be tended by Tara Kolla of Silver Lake Farms over the next few weeks until harvest. Who might it be behind the recent influx of food+art culture awesomeness around town? Look no further than the illustrious programmers behind the Levi's Film Workshop in conjunction with MOCA's summer-long Art In The Streets exhibit.
Enter The Hunger.

Aaron Rose, Jonathan Wells, Gelya Robb

By invitation of Foodbuzz and Levi's Film Workshop I had the fortunate opportunity to talk to bright minds behind the bold logos and find out what deliciousness is still in store. Fimmaker and Art in the Streets co-curator Aaron Rose introduced Wild Goodness, an inventive collaborative documentary project that will be made over the next several weeks centering around the Kilgallen memorial farm that will utilize the Levi's film workshops to help produce the "Sesame Street-esque vaudevillian vignettes" about farming that comprise a good chunk of the final film. Unlike doomsday future food films such as Food INC, Rose wants this film to be lighthearted and celebrate the joy of creation, and highlight the "punk rock.. and street art" similarities of farming on the fringes.

The participating workshops are programmed by longtime LA film proponent Jonathan Wells (Flux, RESfest) and held on-site at the Geffen Contemporary. Upcoming sessions (all free to attend) include stop-motion animating fruits and veggies with Clare Crespo (7/9) and a music supervision workshop with Wild Goodness collaborator Randall Poster (7/10).

Creative director Gelya Robb (a music professional with a passion for food... Hmm, sounds familiar), donning a denim jumper in tribute to her Levi's aproned comrades running the workshop, couldn't stop smiling while circling events in the calendar as she ran me through it. Most notably for me, July 7th's return to the Cinefamily when John Shook and Vinny Dotolo of Animal will take the stage to introduce Martin Scorsese's Italianamerican. But the kicker? "They are rumored to have in their possession Scorsese's mother's meatball recipe..." With designs to exploit it!? Count. Me. In.

The Hunger runs through July 14, culminating in a food-filled harvest celebration of the Kilgallen garden and premiere of Wild Goodness, Lorenzo Fonda's film in collaboration with Ludo Lefebvre, and O'Neal's Kogi BBQ film.

For full schedule of events go here.

My previous post for more on Levi's Film Workshop and Art In The Streets.

Carnish Culture: The Nudie Foodies Book Release!

2011-06-21T17:39:00.000-07:00

The book is out! Pick it up at Blurb.com! 100% of all profits benefit AmeriCares Japan tsumani relief. I am so proud to be a part of this project. Thank you everyone for your continuing support.

We did it!

thenudiefoodies.com

Recettes Secrètes: Prosecco Gelée

2011-06-17T15:05:00.000-07:00

On the next episode of my podcast The Table Set, Andy, Greg and I discuss amuse-bouche, apertifs, and how to properly start a party. Since I am a lover of Prosecco and any cocktail you can eat, this recipe immediately came to mind. Conceived by pastry chef Catherine Schimenti and originally printed by the LA Times, here I adapted this a very easy, unique, and festive way to open an elegant meal.

Prosecco Gelée

1 (6-inch) length of a vanilla bean
3/4 cup sugar
2 Tablespoons (2 packets) unflavored gelatin powder
12 ounces Prosecco

Pour sugar into a small jar. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean into the sugar, add pod, lid jar and shake vigorously to mix thoroughly. Remove pod and add the vanilla sugar to 3/4 cup water in a medium saucepan. Heat over moderately high heat until the sugar dissolves and the syrup almost comes to a boil. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Sprinkle the gelatin over 1/4 cup cold water to soften, 1 to 2 minutes. Fold into the warm simple syrup and stir constantly until the gelatin is dissolved.

Carefully pour the Prosecco into the saucepan, and stir gently but quickly to combine. Pour the gelée mixture into molds or an 8-by-8-inch square cake pan lined with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until completely set, preferably overnight. To serve, carefully remove the gelée from the molds (use the tip of a knife to loosen each shot) or, if using a cake pan, cut the gelée into 1-inch squares. Serve cold. To really make an impression, garnish with edible 24K gold flakes.

Voyager Bien: The Big [Mill] Chill part 1

2011-06-13T21:24:00.000-07:00

Sometimes magic happens.
Simple, unhurried, effortless magic.

It was a blustery spring morning when I flew into JFK, red-eyed from a sleepless red eye with a high school glee club, and an emotional veil leftover from my grandmother’s funeral the previous day. The crowd in baggage claim parted and there was Brooke, bundled in hiker’s packs, red-eyed herself, and ready with a warm hug.

Renting a car in New York is about as surreal as it gets. After trekking from JFK and scooping up two more of my bestest friends in Brooklyn (and a few growlers of beer), we were off upstate through pizzelle-sized snowflakes, the warmth already returning to my cheeks.

When we first wound down the old country road leading to our abode for the next few days, we passed the turn-off – quickly halting to a stop on the bridge just past. There, across the creek, through a clearing of naked trees was The Mill. White water rushing around its steady stone base. A sentinel. A lounging giant. No one breathed for several seconds. Simply magical.

The structure was originally built in 1913 as a cider mill, partially using stones from a destroyed cotton mill at the same site. Research found it was once owned by a Rowland Hazard of South Kingstown, Rhode Island (uh, family ghosts?)

The interior was gutted in the late seventies and renovated as a living space in a (then) modern fashion, now fused with a decidedly rustic mid-century aesthetic. Breezy airways exist between the rooms and floors, geometric peek-a-boos for airflow and the ever-present white noise of the powerful water rushing through the Mill’s veins.

An impressive collection of enamelware and unique kitchen tools immediately won me over.. (A vintage fondue set for 24? Fantastic). We were home.

To settle in, we tapped a growler and sipped IPA with cheese and apples while Judah prepared our first of several fantastic dinners. His cauliflower quiche was modest but comforting and flavorful, served with cast-iron roasted Brussels sprouts and a crisp Sauvignon Blanc.

After dinner reading from the Mill's library proved that I may, in fact, be an alcoholic.

Morning meant sunlight (goodbye veils and rainclouds) and a bustle in the kitchen as "the Germans" prepared us a proper European style continental spread. Lox, dilled cucumbers, herbed potato salad, frittata, mushroom scramble, prosciutto & melon, cheeses, dry-cured sausages, soft rye and crusty breads. And lots of coffee.

To make the most of our day, we the chefs of the next few meals drove into town right after breakfast to hit up Adams Fairacre Farms and Arlington Wine & Liquor Store to stock up for the rest of the weekend. Back at the Mill, Brooke prepared her short ribs and then we were off to explore the grounds.

The patio on the back side of the mill's upper floor is a ghostly shrine, comprised of the ruins of the previous cotton mill (circa 1840) which burnt down in 1873.

In the sticks beyond the Mill are the foundations of an old ice house. Full of roots and empty glass bottles, ancient and less ancient.

The mill pond (which believe it or not we jumped into one icy afternoon).

As the sun filtered away little by little through the trees, it felt like the right time for a cold craft beer. We returned to our arsenal of growlers, filled at infamous Williamsburg Brew York City inside of a Bedford corner Duane Reade pharmacy. It didn't take us long to go through the 64 oz bottles of Kelso Nut Brown, Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout, Righteous Rye, and Peak Organic IPA.

Dinner #2: Brooke (little bird big city) made us braised short ribs!

Liz contributed her hand-made focaccia (some for now, and some for later).

Alongside the delicious stew-like ribs Brooke made cheesey cast iron cornbread and kale beet salad with chevre.

But Brooke REALLY spoiled us with dessert (she IS a professional at this)... Her scratch butterscotch caramel puddings were literally to die for.

Already I felt like someone was writing the screenplay for my perfect relaxing weekend retreat as it was unfolding. And to think it had only just begun!

Voyager Bien: The Big [Mill] Chill part 2

2011-06-13T20:40:00.000-07:00

Waking up at the Mill was about as magical as it gets. Embers in the stove, the sound of water rushing through the foundations, a slight chill that keeps the covers tucked tightly. Breakfasts got off to a slow start, so the strawberry rosemary and black pepper focaccia Liz smartly made the night prior tided us over with coffee until Sunday brunch hit the table.

Ksenya and I were up next to cook, and we decided to make molettes - Mexican breakfast sandwiches - and a bloody maria bar. My scratch mary mix benefitted from freshly grated horseradish and smoky chipotle in place of Worcestershire. We used cucumber, radish and cilantro to garnish.

Our molettes stacked fried eggs, epazote-spiced black beans, avocados, fresh salsa, cheddar and cotija atop grilled brioche. A mighty satisfying way to start the day.

After brunch we caravanned through the neighboring Dutchess Wine Trail.

Our first stop was at Clinton Vineyards, who specialize in Champagne-style sparkling wine and fortified dessert wines. A sweet earthy Cassis is their award winner.

Our next stop was at Millbrook Vineyards & Winery, started by the guy who trademarked "I ♥ NY" of all things. Luckily he's multi-talented - We had a lovely time at his tasting room, the entertaining pourer offering samples of many selections beyond the list.

Back at the house we joined forces for pizza night.

We used fresh dough from Adam's Fairacre Farms and Buffalo mozzarella. Ksenya masterminded the menu, with delightful premeditated combos like proscuitto Bing cherry rosemary ricotta, gorgonzola fried sage pear, honey glazed root vegetable, and lemon bitter chicory green shaved parmesan. We cranked 8 pizzas out of two small consumer ovens!

The reason we were all together, after all, was our dear Ksenya's 30th. Brooke made her a gorgeous chocolate stout cake with the last drops of our last growler of beer. The fire crackled and we sat in our food comas and watched it smolder. The way every night should end.

Most of the gang took off Monday, but a few of us remained. We had something important to do.

One of Ksenya's ideas that sank the trip for me was a trip out to Orvis Sandanona shooting grounds, a classy sportsman lodge wingshooting school in nearby Millbrook.
Here we were instructed on handling and shooting shotguns on a world class sporting clays shooting ground, then go off on the course (reminiscent of the Sleepy Hollow set) with our guide who would send the clays flying for us, two at a time.

I actually wasn't half bad!

A pond of fallen clays on the course.

Getting the hang of it!

Sore and exhausted from our full day adventure gun toting in the woods, we opened some wine and relaxed, choosing s'mores over organized dinner. It was our last night at the Mill, and we huddled about the fire like it might go out if we looked away.

I woke in my pleasantly chilly stone room for the last time and said goodbye to my curtain of trees and cute woolen blanket. We tidied the house forlornly and packed up the car. I felt my veil slightly reappear merely contemplating the return to real life, happy to continue to play lumberjack duck hunter river swimmer cast iron chef up in the country. With wet bittersweet eyes we waved goodbye, the falls gargling their own farewell as the dark eyes of the stone mill watched us disappear quietly back down the country road from which we came.

Buvare: Papa Pomelo Daiquiri

2011-06-10T16:42:00.000-07:00

One of the many reasons for my blogger slack lately (excuses, excuses) is that I just moved house. This is something I am very ecstatic about. I have a yard! I have an outdoor dining table! I have sexy lounge chairs and a babbling fountain! Most importantly I have somewhere to ENTERTAIN.

The other night while recording our podcast, the Table Set - which is centered around the umbrella topic of entertaining, Andy, Greg and I were discussing house warming parties in particular, and the importance of incorporating a sense of place. One of the most noticeable aspects of my new yard is the towering citrus tree dangling with human head-sized yellow fruits: Pomelos.

The size of a soccer ball and heavy as a mid-size dog, the greenish-yellow giant comes to us from Eastern Asia. With a dense foamy pith up to 2 inches thick, the pomelo is deceiving in size, but still packs a good amount of tart juicy pulp inside. The flavor is somewhere between a lemon and yellow grapefruit, and dropping bombs on my patio at least once a day, my new go-to citrus for cooking and cocktails.

Naturally for my intimate housewarming gathering I decided to employ the fruit (as did many guests, spearing take aways from the tree on their way out). I peeled back the pith (the remnants a meme of their own: "cat wigs") and squeezed about a quart of tangy juice. Now what?
I took a wise cue from one of my Table Set co-hosts Greg to try it as a Papa Hemingway Daiquiri - A sexy twist on the rum/lime classic made by Ernest himself, incorporating grapefruit and marischino liqueur. With a few tweaks of my own, the Papa Pomelo was born. Originally a punch bowl affair, below is an abbreviated single cocktail version.

Papa Pomelo Daiquiri Punch

2 oz white rum
1/2 oz marischino liqueur
1/2 oz Velvet Falernum
1 oz fresh-squeezed pomelo juice
1 oz fresh-squeezed lime juice
Dash of Fee's rhubarb bitters
Drop of orange flower water

Combine all ingredients in a shaker over cracked ice. Shake hard and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a pomelo peel.

Now watch your head.

Carnish Culture: Nudie Foodies

2011-06-03T16:02:00.000-07:00

"YOU should be a Nudie Foodie" was the first thing Linda (Ms. Salty Seattle, to you) said to me upon meeting in a dusky West Hollywood bar. I had seen the tweets, I knew of this brazen charitable meme... and couldn't help but [modestly] oblige.

(A ChocoMeat teaser...)

So who are The Nudie Foodies? It's not a hippie culinary cult - necessarily. But the Nudie Foodies are on a mission to make a difference, the best way we know how. Recipes! And coincidentally, taking off some clothes...
Our mission:

We are the Nudie Foodies. We exist for the sole purpose of bringing cheeky goodness to the world. Our project was borne out of a desire to help the people of Japan recover from the devastation caused by the recent earthquake and subsequent Tsunami.

You can help us help Japan by purchasing a Nudie Foodie book which will be available soon through blurb.com. All profits will be donated to charity committed to the Japan relief effort. Our book features 18 cover model-caliber food bloggers peeling it off for Japan. Each blogger showcases a recipe in the book, and each nudie image features ingredients from those recipes.

The review copy has been recieved, which means an offical book launch is not far off! Follow the Nudie Foodies on Twitter, Facebook and at thenudiefoodies.com for updates. If you feel so inclined, bear a badge of support for your brave fellow foodies! (Get badges here).

For the sake of all that is good, support your local Nudie Foodie. Only good will come from it... (Trust me).

thenudiefoodies.com

Carnish Culture: Homefries.com!!!

2011-05-23T11:22:00.000-07:00

Today is a very special day.

It marks the launch of an exciting new endeavor I've secretly been working on for the past couple of months with some very talented and wonderful people.

Created by the ever-lovely Joy the Baker, I give you Homefries, the first independent podcast network dealing with what's really important: Food, wine, simple living, parenting, lifestyle and entertainment!

I am honored to be involved, co-hosting a entertaining podcast called the The Table Set with two of my absolute favorite bloggers Andy & Greg (@windattack & @sippitysup). We will discuss pressing issues regarding party menus, clever decor and foxy cocktails. We'll hopefully alleviate the party planning concerns that keep you awake at night. And laugh a little too.

Watch our intro video and start listening!

homefries.com

Croquer: Rosewood Tavern

2011-05-22T23:13:00.000-07:00

And so George Abou-Daoud has done it again. Yes, he may have yelled at me when I snapped shots for my Mercantile piece, but the prolific owner also of District, Bowery, Delancey, Mission Cantina, Gelatovino, and Tamarind Deli has opened yet another rustic industrial-chic watering hole-cum-dinette. This one with a tight focus: Steak and Scotch. (Immediately, I like it).

Fresh to the Fairfax Village strip dominated by Animal and the Golden State, Rosewood Tavern resurrects the airy digs formerly of the Black Sea Russian restaurant, and by the noisy din of the room, not without some raucous leftover ghosts.

The bar bypasses specialty cocktails (though they do have a full bar), instead focusing on a hefty collection of Scotch and Irish Whiskeys and 28 craft brews on draught - From Eagle Rock Brewing's Solidarity to O’Hara’s Irish Stout, Eel River Triple Exultation to New Orleans' Abita Amber.

Opening night was expectedly nuts. We wove through the din and saddled up at the bar. Work week strain called for a stiff drink, so I ordered a 14 year old Oban Single Malt Scotch on the rocks. After that, the wait hardly bugged me. Wait - what wait?

From our table, it was clear the opening night staff was beyond weeded by the rowdy TGIF drinking crowd. But more importantly, they were sweet as rhubarb pie. I was once on the opening staff of the Doug Fir restaurant in Portland (took to first table, in fact!) - Thus - I will never complain on an opening night (yes, the computers WILL go down - and did).
That said, nothing took as dreadfully long as was promised. The food came out in little time, or so it seemed (thanks again, Scotch).

We started with the Horseradish Deviled Eggs. Standard fare, but welcomed all the same. Nice bite from the horseradish.

The Chicken Liver Mousse Crostinis were more of a revelation, texturely enhanced with sprinkled crushed walnuts and ever-so-slightly sweetened with drops of port reduction.

It's a steak place, you gotta get the Iceberg Wedge. More of a slab, this wedge is drowning in tangy bleu cheese dressing, bacon and spring onions - with extra bleu crumbles for good measure. Because we can.

My friend Michael's New York Strip Steak was basically perfect. Amazing seasoned sear, perfectly mid-rare, adequate marbling bursting with succulent flavor. Swoon. The side of Brussels sprouts with bacon literally and figuratively lived in its shadow. But neither of us cared.

My Beef Tenderloin was a gorgeous baseball of meat threatening to burst. Juicy and expertly prepared - an impressive cut of lean meat. The side of asparagus with Hollandaise sauce was a charming accoutrement.

It didn't arrive until the plates had been cleared, but our glasses of Old Chub Scotch Ale (8% ABV, from Colorado's Oskar Blues Brewery) were still welcomed, and sweeter than expected so made an apropos dessert. With brown sugar and nutty coffee notes, it carried less peat than a Scotch barrel-aged ale suggests, but again, so what? It's Friday. Steaks were had. Smooth Scotch. Everything's A-OK.

Rosewood is open Sunday-Thursday, 5PM-midnight, Friday and Saturday, 5PM-2AM.

448 N Fairfax Ave. Mid-city 90036; 323.944.0980
rosewoodtavern.com

Buvare: The Bar at Cliff's

2011-05-22T17:14:00.000-07:00

I've always been a fan of the hidden Silver Lake oasis Cliff's Edge for luxurious weekend brunches (you know, the kind that end with wine). Then last year, owner Dana Hollister tried her hand at the downtown speakeasy game and won the hidden category (yet again) with with her far-outlying whiskey lair Villains Tavern.
For her next trick, Dana is starting at the home and shaking things up in the oft-ignored interior dining room at Cliff's Edge (with a patio like that, who would choose to eat inside?). A truck load of reclaimed wood paneling, beaded opium den chandeliers, and some rustic elbow grease later The Bar at Cliff's is born.

Former Seven Grand and Villains barman Dave Whitton is at the helm, offering a deceivingly classic list. But the Devil's in the details - The Margaritas are kissed with cucumber, the Manhattan with yuzu, and the Cosmopolitan with Cabernet and lavender bitters. I was delighted to see the New Orleans' Carousel Bar-born Vieux Carre cocktail present - An intoxicating preparation of Courvosier VS, Rye, Carpano Antica, Benedictine, Peychaud's and Angostura Bitters. To soak up the liquor, Chef Hugues Quintard's menu of bar bites includes various crostini, duck foie gras parfait, smoked trout rillette, moules frites, and of course charcuterie.
The kitchen closes at 10pm, but the bar stays open until 2am.
Finally, some late night class in the 'hood.

3626 W Sunset Blvd. Silver Lake 90026; 323.666.6116
cliffsedgecafe.com

Buvare: Learn About Wine

2011-05-10T19:46:00.000-07:00

I love wine. But you will never hear me say that I KNOW about wine.
Sure, I've learnt some over the years about your usual suspect regions, a handful of grapes, wine trails I've explored and some makers that dazzle me. However I think a lack of declarative confidence is common for many tenderfoot wine enthusiasts. No secret - It's an intimidating world.

That's where Ian Blackburn begs to differ. Since 1995 his Learn About Wine empire has been educating and encouraging the enjoyment of wine through its website, videos, and diverse programs spanning from Wine Camp to regional tours, 101 intro classes to a L.A.W. school BAR exam for a Junior Wine Executive credential.

This week comes the latest in Learn About Wine’s flagship wine tasting series: The 2nd Annual STARS OF PASO ROBLES, featuring more than two dozen of the leading wineries from this up and coming wine region. The winemakers will be present, pouring over 100 of their most prided wines and explaining their craft.

You may register for the event at STARSofPASOROBLES.com.
100% of the silent auction proceeds benefit the TJ Martell Foundation, and funds children's cancer and aids research and Children's Hospital Los Angeles.

Friday, May 13, 2011 7:00 PM - 9:30 PM
Via Rodeo at Two Rodeo
Via Rodeo Dr.
Beverly Hills, California 90210

$75 Advanced Purchase
Two for $140
$69 Taste & Vintage Members
$100 at the Door
for tickets visit www.learnaboutwine.com or call 310.451.7600

Below are some of my favorite wines from the extravagant STARS OF NAPA VALLEY, the last L.A.W. tasting event I was lucky enough to attend at the Peninsula Hotel last month (thank you Greg of Sippity Sup for the recommendation!). I got to learn firsthand how intimate these gatherings are, and connected with several winemakers over their exceptional vintages.

The extraordinary 2007 SOLO Cabernet Sauvignon.

The bright Bordeaux-style 2007 Virage Napa Valley (71% Cabernet Franc, 24%Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon) was almost as charming as Virage winemaker Emily Richer herself!

The elegant full-bodied Robert Biale 2007 Like Father Like Son Petite Sirah.

There was a lot of talk about the offerings from Veedercrest, who tapped some special reserve bottles.

Probably my across-the-board favorites came from T-Vine Cellars, whose bold 2007 Zinfandel, jammy 2008 Syrah and sublime 2008 Grenache simply blew me away.

learnaboutwine.com

Carnish Culture: Levi's Film Workshop

2011-04-26T17:08:00.000-07:00

It was lunch time and I was rushing hungry through Little Tokyo plaza with my camera - but not for ramen. The surprisingly warm afternoon sun bathed downtown for the first time all week, and as I wished I had my sunglasses, Shepard Fairey passed briskly, politely waving off several lingering press folks outside the Geffen Contemporary at MOCA. I was en route to the preview of Art in the Streets, and clearly I had found it.

The invite came from Levi's, to check out their impressive new Film Workshop set up in conjunction with MOCA's vast exhibit comprehensively surveying graffiti and street art through the past several decades. Rather than exiting through the gift shop, museum-goers would exit through the workshop.

The industrious creative work space is fully staffed and open to the public free of charge during regular museum hours inside the Geffen Contemporary at MOCA (152 North Central Avenue) in downtown Los Angeles now through August. Key resources available include latest generation computers and edit suites provided by Intel; a green screen “cyc” provided by Quixote Studios; a slow-motion video booth; stop motion and multiplane animation stations; Adobe professional video, animation, compositing, audio, and design software; Magic Bullet Suite for color correction and visual effects plug-ins; a Phonotrope and hand painted film table. The Workshop Equipment Rental counter will offer a selection of vintage and modern cameras including Super8, Flips and DSLRs; sound equipment from RØDE; grip and lighting gear from Quixote; tripods and accessories from Manfrotto; a host of devices for duplicating and transferring; a screening facility for filmmakers to share their creations... All free of charge.

Throughout the next few months the workshop will also host collaborations with artists from the Art in the Streets exhibition and pioneers from the worlds of street art and graffiti, skateboarding, food and music. Weekly Educational Workshops will be taught by industry experts and special guests that cover topics including everything from found footage, Super8, 16mm film techniques and direct animation to stunts and 3D. A series of film screenings related to art, skate, music and food will also be presented in partnership with LA-based curators and theaters.

But what I am looking forward to most? Shockingly, the food segment coming up in July! Levi’s has only hinted at some of the programming (still in the works), but disclosed a project that will pair celebrated food trucks (Kogi BBQ confirmed among them) with respected filmmakers to create short films celebrating the food truck trade. Stay tuned, I will post the full food schedule once it's released.

In the meantime, who wants to get green screened into Babette's Feast?

For more information about Levi’s Workshops and the Levi’s Film Workshop, please visit http://workshops.levi.com, http://www.facebook.com/Levis and @levisworkshops.

And since I had a press pass in hand, I quickly toured the exhibit next door. Not to be missed!

I'll leave you with an animated film made in the Levi's Film Workshop by Filmmaker Cat Solen in collaboration with Art in the Streets featured artist Swoon.

Swoon + Cat Solen from Levi's Film Workshop on Vimeo.

ART IN THE STREETS: April 17 – August 8, 2011
THE GEFFEN CONTEMPORARY AT MOCA
MOCA.org

Carnish Culture: BabyCakes Gives Birth - Again!

2011-04-13T18:41:00.000-07:00

If you've EVER followed my blog for more than like a second then you know that I'm a faithful lover of NYC-native vegan and gluten-free bakery BabyCakes. And Erin McKenna, the sweetheart behind the delicious operation has been keeping mighty busy. She's opened outposts in downtown Los Angeles and Downtown Disney at the Walt Disney World Resort Florida, released an acclaimed cookbook (check out the Sweet Paradise Cake!), and now already a second book, in stores today.
The new edition, dubbed "BabyCakes Covers the Classics: Gluten-Free Vegan Recipes from Donuts to Snickerdoodles" contains 50 dietarily-reinterpreted recipes for favorite treats like Thin Mints, whoopie pies, waffles, pancakes, hamentashen, sugar cookies, German chocolate cake, donuts, Mounds, and madeleines... Finally, sweets for all!

Erin McKenna will be doing baking demos and signing copies of the new cookbook at the following Williams-Sonoma locations, hopefully near you:

Saturday, April 16 at 1:00pm in Short Hills, NJ
Sunday, May 1, at 1:00pm in Santa Monica, CA

BabyCakes Covers the Classics: From Donuts to Snickerdoodles. It's the New Cookbook!!! from BabyCakes NYC on Vimeo.
Preview vid shot & directed by David Mettler, produced by David Mettler and Chris Cechin, and edited by Justin Gallaher.

Croquer: Mother Dough

2011-04-12T23:50:00.000-07:00

You've probably already heard of it. You know, the new Los Feliz pizza joint that's "better than Mozza." But I'd like to suggest we not compare the two. Mother Dough is playing a different hand, and for the moment anyway winning the Neapolitan game in LA.

Just one week after supping on Greenpoint, NY's popular Paulie Gee's Neapolitan style pizza, it was refreshing to walk into Mother Dough and find a similarly casual room with a sister 6,000 pound imported high-temp wood burning oven. A single pizzaiolo tossed the pies in and out (for a mere 60 to 90 seconds each at 850+ degrees). I couldn't help but feel a little pride that LA could finally be catching up.

Wind Attack and I snagged the last table (not bad for a Friday night). Our server warned us that the entire room had just ordered and pizzas were running behind. No problem for us, we ordered the mixed greens to start, a vibrant blend of kale, arugula, radicchio, mint, and tomato in a punchy vinaigrette.

Contrary to the admonition our pizzas didn't take long at all, and even came out at the same time. Mother Dough offers 5 pies (ah, focused simplicity!). We of course ordered a classic Margherita as well as the Whiskey-Fennel Sausage (essentially the Margherita with a few slices of tasty sausage). The pizzas are thin and char-blistered, mottled with bright San Marzano tomato puree and buffalo mozzarella. Each batch of dough carries a small piece of the dough before it (the "Mother Dough" lineage) which baked is chewy and tart, with a soft center and a charred underside that packs a considerable bitterness.
A destination for purists, some may scratch their heads at Mother Dough's pies. The pizzas may not be crowned with squash blossoms, hot chiles or funghi misti, but I bet they can sleep at night.

4648 Hollywood Blvd. LA, 90027; 323.644.2885
motherdoughpizza.com