Mozza." But I'd like to suggest we not compare the two. Mother Dough is playing a different hand, and for the moment anyway winning the Neapolitan game in LA.
Paulie Gee's Neapolitan style pizza, it was refreshing to walk into Mother Dough and find a similarly casual room with a sister 6,000 pound imported high-temp wood burning oven. A single pizzaiolo tossed the pies in and out (for a mere 60 to 90 seconds each at 850+ degrees). I couldn't help but feel a little pride that LA could finally be catching up.
Wind Attack and I snagged the last table (not bad for a Friday night). Our server warned us that the entire room had just ordered and pizzas were running behind. No problem for us, we ordered the mixed greens to start, a vibrant blend of kale, arugula, radicchio, mint, and tomato in a punchy vinaigrette.
admonition our pizzas didn't take long at all, and even came out at the same time. Mother Dough offers 5 pies (ah, focused simplicity!). We of course ordered a classic Margherita as well as the Whiskey-Fennel Sausage (essentially the Margherita with a few slices of tasty sausage). The pizzas are thin and char-blistered, mottled with bright San Marzano tomato puree and buffalo mozzarella. Each batch of dough carries a small piece of the dough before it (the "Mother Dough" lineage) which baked is chewy and tart, with a soft center and a charred underside that packs a considerable bitterness.
A destination for purists, some may scratch their heads at Mother Dough's pies. The pizzas may not be crowned with squash blossoms, hot chiles or funghi misti, but I bet they can sleep at night.