
God bless whoever came up with the concept behind the Gastropub. Any foodie has a soft spot for comfort pub fare, but knocking it up a notch with premium ingredients and epicurian flair is the bee's knees. I decided to drop into Melrose's young gastropub The Village Idiot to see how well it balances a fresh approach to classic British creature comforts. Given the faux-trendy, very "LA" neighborhood, initially I had my doubts.
Surprisingly, once inside the wide-windowed, brick and dark wood interior the tacky mess of Melrose instantly vaporized into a cozy haze of oak wood smoke. After settling into an open-window-side leather booth with a freind we appropriately ordered Black and Tans (which were not on the beer/drink menu?!). Large chalk boards high on the walls touted the grub, and we decided it was an afternoon fit only for an Oak-grilled Pub Burger (with Balsamic Onion Relish and Hand-Cut Fries).
We enjoyed our beers in the hazy sunlight whilst eschewing eye contact with countless vagrants outside, occasionally having to speak over the din of passing gaggles of fashion victims. Our burgers arrived promptly, oozing with gruyere, half-covered by a pile of magnificent fries. First bite scored high on the burger-meter - my only complaint was that my medium rare patty was disappointingly cooked-through (a burger lover pet peeve) - saved however by a remarkable moistness and deep smokey flavor. The onion relish seemed like a bit of an afterthought, living in a small outcast ramekin - and outshined by the rest of the flavors in the burger.

Next on Tavern Talk: The York...
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