Monday, October 19, 2009

Croquer: The Golden State

This is why I would benefit from an iPhone.
Guess who keeps forgetting his camera when eating out? Hmmm!
No, instead I meekly accept my friends' offers to use their iPhones and email me the pics. Thank you friends!
The Golden State is a great place to go with good friends such as these. Inside this simple brick-walled storefront in Fairfax Village across from Canter's (but perhaps more akin to neighboring businesses Family Bookstore and Silent Movie Theatre), you'll find zero pretension, good beer, and a friendly family of local food providers under one roof. Whenever the owner is the dude behind the register suggesting the special and which beer to have with it, you know you're in good, humble hands. Such was the case when my last visit resulted in the tastiest lamb burger and Greek cucumber slaw I've ever had (a special sadly - that hopefully they will bring onto the menu!). Casual to the core and all about what tastes good, this is a cafe based around a philosophy of admiration and local pride:
The Golden State is a talent show for the best makers of food and drink in California. We love Samir's food. We love Scoops gelato. We love breweries like Craftsman and wineries like Topanga Vineyards. We think products like these deserve a stage of their own. California is an easy place to love. It's where we grew up. It's what we know. And it tastes very good.
It sure does! My sweet and juicy lamb burger was perfectly cooked, nicely balanced with drippy feta, roasted red pepper and supple brioche bun.. dare I say a slightly more substantial take on a flavor-packed Umami Burger? As a compliment, I dare! The crisp Persian cucumbers of the lemony Greek side salad were only trumped by my friend's side, a refreshing jalapeño slaw (shredded red and green cabbage, carrots, jalapeño, red wine vinaigrette). For the sausage lover, they serve CA's best Let's Be Frank dogs. I had a crisp Allagash White beer with my burger, and duh, they have the best beer float in town (Rasputin Imperial Stout and Scoops' Brown Bread ice cream - yes, we had one for dessert, and you should too).

426 N Fairfax Ave. Los Angeles, CA 90036
323.782.8331
thegoldenstatecafe.com

Photo by Cat

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

Croquer: Marlow & Daughters

As if Mark Firth & Andrew Tarlow's South Williamsburg empire wasn't impressive enough, they furthered Marlow & Sons' storefront market approach enlisting their butcher Tom Mylan to open a full service butcher shop and gourmet fromager just a block east of the Marlow/Diner compound, appropriately ordained Marlow & Daughters.
Farm fresh produce sits in fruit boxes out front and small batch canned goods line the white wood box shelves inside. A monochromatic still life of supple artisan cheese wedges and wheels lay comfortably in a cooler case beside fresh sausages and cured meats. Hungry or not, this epicurean Eden will make your mouth water.
It was now Sunday (two days after the rooftop extravaganza) and we had organized a group outing to picnic on Governer's Island. Provisions were needed!
We descended on Marlow & Daughters like starved seabirds, added urgency as we realized our morning lackadaisicalness could risk perhaps, literally, missing the boat.
The cheese was tough to tackle, it all looked and sounded amazing. When in doubt, ask your cheesemonger. We decided to get two contrasting selections from the case, settling on a Twig Farm washed rind soft goats milk "fuzzy wheel" from Vermont (full-flavored and incredible) and an Appalachian cows milk cheese from Meadow Creek Dairy in Virginia (mild and buttery). We also got a parcel of Sopressata tipo Toscano from NYC local Salumeria Bielesse. A fresh baguette, bushel of Gala apples, and a block of Ski Queen Gjetost (a unique brown cheese from Norway with a fudge-like texture and a sweet caramel flavor) and we were out the door, filled 'Diner' canvas market bags on our shoulders (ah, and my one trip souvenir).
We boarded the ferry to Governer's Island at the Southern tip of Manhattan, near the Ellis Island ferry (for complete ferry schedule and details go here). Once we got on the boat we were mere minutes from another world, a little slice of colonial Virginia; Grassy fields, forts, oak trees and military estates. We staked out a spot beside an empty moat and laid out our fodder. Our tasteful guests who joined brought petite wine grapes, almonds, crisp Rielsing, Rosé and Prosecco, and last but certainly not least Dean & Deluca macarons!We ran out of glasses... voila!Toasting to a lovely afternoon!
some photos by brooke

En Vitesse: Umami Los Feliz opens

It's official. Rad burgers easily accessible in my O.G. LA stomping grounds.
Umami Burger opened its hotly anticipated second location Friday in Los Feliz, a 50/50 collaboration between Umami's Adam Fleischman and restauranteur Steven Arroyo in the former Cobras & Matadors space on Hollywood Boulevard. The attached bar Salaryman is open serving a selection of Japanese beer.
Wtf are you waiting for??

4655 Hollywood Blvd. Los Feliz, CA 90027
umamiburger.com

Monday, October 5, 2009

Super Bon!: Peter Pan Donut & Pastry Shop

"OMG!" Brooke stopped in her tracks as we strolled down Manhattan Avenue in Greenpoint. "We have to stop and get a donut here!"
This was not my first inclination immediately following a very filling eggy potato leek hash and bloody mary brunch down the street at Enid's. But this bakery did stick out among the countless Polish bakeries on the street. A vintage sheen of mint green and white glowed from inside, the smell of fresh baked goodies wafting in our direction as customers bustled in and out of the cramped kitschy time capsule. Plus it's called Peter Pan, for chrissakes.
"Oof... Maybe for later..." I agreed in defeat, and opened the door for her.
Within seconds I knew we had made the right decision. Red Velvet cake donuts??
"This is my favorite donut shop in the city," Brooke elaborated. "They make ice cream sandwiches on those red velvet donuts." Heart. Melting.
Sadly I could not comprehend consuming a melty treat at the moment so opted for a plain red velvet donut, French cruller and sour cream glazed. By the time we made it the 10 blocks or so to the Brooklyn waterfront park, Brooke and I were digging into the bag for our treats. The morsels were tender and delicious. Dessert after breakfast never tasted so sweet.727 Manhattan Ave, Brooklyn, NY, 11222; 718.389.3676
Peter Pan Donut & Pastry Shop
Train: G to Nassau Ave or G to Greenpoint Ave.

Donut photo by Brooke

Sunday, October 4, 2009

Croquer: Marlow & Sons

For the past several years, no trip to New York has been complete without one quiet modest dinner or simply a glass of wine in the shadow of the Williamsburg bridge at Diner. Also a fan of owners Mark Firth & Andrew Tarlow's [now closed] Mexican loveletter Bonita, I had yet to try Diner's next door neighbor, and other sibling Marlow & Sons.
I've heard about the quaint storefront for years, where an old college friend worked for a time, known for their oysters, "confectionery, spirits"...and their oysters.I'll get this out of the way now, in my developing palate for all things sea-grown --Yes, I'm still finding my sea legs.. or sea tongue?-- I have always been too tuna (get it? chicken of the sea?) to try a raw oyster. Yep! Never had one. I've worked at several Northwest restaurants known for their excellent oysters, and passed up the opportunity. For shame!
The top of the Marlow menu touts $2.75 East Coast oysters. I had a secret goal for the week.
Yes, that means that Marlow & Sons was not to be a one time stop. My hosts frequent the storefront daily as their neighborhood coffee shop and bakery, other assorted sundries (including Portland's Stumptown coffee) available in the front part of the shop, the back room a dim speakeasy-looking dining room and bar.
Battling my exhaustion after flying in day one, Mikey took me down the street for coffee, a bite, and eventually a beer on Marlow's sidewalk patio.
After our espressos we sampled a couple of executive chef Sean Rembold's appetizers. The Crostini with cranberry beans, escarole, and shaved aged goat cheese was salty, rich and satisfying.The deep-fried corn on the cob with spicy lime aioli and cilantro on the other hand left something to be desired; the frying had dried out the kernels a bit. I found myself enjoying the aioli more than the cobbs themselves..I moved on to the Parmesan broth with mustard greens, onions, croutons, which hit the spot for a breezy afternoon snack. The cartoon-canned Porkslap pale ale was a nice match, a flavorful amber tinted ale with some edge.The day following the rooftop extravaganza, we slowly met for a casual hangover brunch in Greenpoint and a stroll to the Brooklyn waterfront park where we lounged in the grass all afternoon. As the sun set behind dusky clouds, said college friend (and Marlow alum) suggested oysters to start us off into the evening right. We congregated outside Marlow & Sons just as the dinner rush began. We filed into the back and crammed ourselves alongside the bar for a beer while we waited. I was very pleased with my pint of Pennichuck Feuerwehrmann Schwarzbier, a "black lager"; light bodied dark beer with a clean, crisp, refreshing finish. Luckily a long wooden table opened up for us relatively quickly and we slid into our cozy spot.
A round of Maine oysters were ordered immeditaely. I began to get a tingle of excitement. The oysters were large and gorgeous, served on the half-shell with lemon wedges and a shallot mignonette. Without a moment's delay everyone raised a shell in a hearty toast and down the hatch! The exhilaration of the moment trumped any previous anxiety, as the fresh oceany brine hit my palate with surprising favor. Lovely! I didn't have to wonder, these were very very good oysters. Before I knew it, we were raising another oyster, an excitement in the air so palpable we could feel it on our smiling lips.We decided to stay for dinner so turned our attention the the blackboard on the wall beside the table. The choices are slim at Marlow & Sons, but since there was already and air of trust it really just made it easier to decide. I started off sharing the Panzanella, which was a decent bread salad rendition (but in all honesty prefer my own). Next was the popular Brick Chicken (chicken cooked under a brick), deliciously tender and flavorful, perfectly crispy skin and meat that slid off the bone. A fully satisfying, homey dish (although I must say, like a duck confit a tad on the greasy side). A round of desserts arrived on the house, the clear stand out being the famous chocolate/caramel torte sprinkled with gray sea salt. Divinity! (AND you can get the recipe here!)
We left full and happy, taking a long walk in the brisk night, eventually picking up some Belgian beer to return home with and visit late into the night.

81 Broadway, Brooklyn, NY 11211; 718.384.1441
marlowandsons.com
Train: JMZ to Marcy or L to Bedford

Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Carnish Culture: Edible Los Angeles


It's been a crazy few weeks folks. More on the plate and time seems to disappear like salted chocolate almonds from my desk. I could make some excuses about my slow posting, but instead will turn your direction for a moment away from my blog to my first published print piece in Edible Los Angeles!
I revisited urban harvesters Fallen Fruit for the magazine and spent a day photographing my own public forage through the streets of Silver Lake. Not only was it a blast, but my respect for the gentlemen behind Fallen Fruit grew immensely. Pick it up! The magazine is available here - Let me know what you think!

Stayed tuned, much more from my recent New York adventures forthcoming, and a trip into the culinary depths of New Orleans happening at the end of the month!

Sunday, September 20, 2009

Gala Parfait: A Five-Bridge-View Rooftop Extravaganza

This Friday, September 4th, at 19:00 commences the event you've all been anxiously awaiting.

A five-bridge-view rooftop extravaganza. With a full-barn'd line up of cocktails, virginal hog sacrifices, lawn-darts, spinning bottles, dancing ruckus and everything else you'd naturally expect at a Catholic-Jewish Lebanese-Russian hoe-down.

The menu, as compiled together by a flock of contributing chefs from West coast and East, features such items as a Georgian-style whole-roasted suckling pig, khachapuri, rib bits, grilled figs, muhammara, pistachio baklava, and stout ice cream floats. A variety bar menu of adorable waters and ice chilled vodka shots will also be provided.

Can't wait to see and toast you all,
Much Love, K&M

† Portions and times not to Eastern-European standard.
‡ For those that asked, dress like the hot date that you are, and come
with a pair of dancing shoes.
¤ BYOB accepted.

1. Five-bridge-view now featured with an extra, bonus addition of one
full moon.
This set the stage for one of the more ambitious events I've been involved with to date.
160+ rsvps by morning-of, more streaming in via text throughout the day. An abandoned fridge by the freight elevator "chilling" cases of vodka and beer. A rigorous schedule for the oven/stovetop. A crew of line cooks staggered throughout the afternoon. A lingering task of ice pickup set for "later" haunting my every thought. By 11:00am, the frenzy was upon us.
Last minute, an exec decision dropped the "whole suckling pig" that was to be picked up from a Georgian restaurant in Brighton Beach (causing a stir among some diet-breaking guests), but everything else on the list made it to the table.
The rather delectable from-scratch tasting menu for the evening was assembled as follows...

Smalls
Hummus
Tabouli
Muhammara
Khachapuri (delicious cheese-filled leavened bread dish from Georgia)
Grilled Fig prosciutto
Grilled jalapeño "poppers"
Deviled eggs
Feta-olive-watermelon skewers

Bigs
Roasted Ribs
Veggie terrine
Lamb kebabs
Mushroom, eggplant, pepper, onion kebabs

Others
Oatmeal stout ice cream floats
Petite chocolate eclairs
Pecan Pie
Pistachio Baklava
Fruit and cheese plate

Drink
2 Dozen bottles of Pan Tadeusz vodka
Dogfish Brown Ale
Hoegaarden wheat beer
Night was falling fast. We hauled 70+ lbs of cherry-picked bodega ice up the 11th and 12th floor stairwells from the freight elevator's final stop, muscles aching.The full moon would luckily bolster our lack of organized lighting, save some tea lights for the table and the twinkle of Manhattan across the river. I asked if Judah could help get the coals started as I hiked platters of skewered nibbles up from the loft...Next thing I knew, the party had officially begun. Guests milled about the roof with drinks. Laughter broke my concentration as the cool night air reminded me I hadn't changed into my 'formal wear'. A deep breath, twirl of tongs and a beer (finally) and I was finally relaxed and ready to rule as the little grill master who could.Before long, I found my stride on the grills, and the food began to fly from the barby to the table in no time. Guests appeared with their contributions, and the celebratory shots of adorable waters commenced. A jolly sheen spread over the roof, enhanced by the silvery moonlight.Here's a peek at the day of prep, with a couple of the favorite recipes.

Prosciutto-wrapped Grilled FigsFresh brown turkey figs were stuffed with a mixture of soft chèvre and chopped fresh rosemary, then wrapped in prosciutto and secured with a toothpick, readied for grilling. Recipe courtesy of Martha.
Ribs!
Fresh Tabouli
A guest begins her watermelon, feta and olive skewers (yum!).
Jalapeño "Poppers"This fresh and spicy alternative to deep-fried jalapeño poppers was a hit! Simply slice a T shape lengthwise down the pepper, use a small butter knife to scrape out most seeds, and stuff jalapeño with a mixture of cream cheese, shredded white cheddar, chopped cilantro and green onions. Grill until lightly charred and filling bubbles at the seam.

Mushroom, Eggplant, Pepper, Onion Kebabs
Don't forget to soak bamboo skewers before loading up with the good stuff.Brooke gets ready to cut some veggies.Toss veggies in ziploc with softened butter, Italian seasoning, salt and pepper - shake to coat.Sea-salted cherry tomatoes served as sweet-tart vodka shot chasers.

Lamb Kebabs
My favorite of the bunch! Marinade is out of this world!
(We doubled+ this recipe for our 2.5 lb cut of lamb)

1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1/4 cup pomegranate molasses*
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 garlic cloves, pressed
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 pound trimmed boneless leg of lamb, cut into twenty-four 3/4-inch cubes

1 large red bell pepper, cut into twenty-four 3/4-inch squares
24 small metal skewers or bamboo skewers, soaked in water 30 minutes, drained

*Available at some supermarkets, at Middle Eastern markets

Heat small skillet over medium heat. Add cumin and stir until aromatic and lightly toasted, about 2 minutes. Grind cumin in mortar or spice mill. Mix pomegranate molasses, olive oil, garlic, oregano, salt, pepper, cinnamon, and cumin in 1-gallon resealable plastic bag. Add lamb; chill at least 1 hour and up to 4 hours.
Remove lamb from marinade. Thread 1 lamb piece and 1 red pepper piece on each skewer; place on baking sheet. Do ahead Can be made up to 2 hours ahead. Cover and refrigerate.Prepare barbecue (medium-high heat). Sprinkle kebabs with salt and pepper. Cook, turning often, about 4 minutes for medium-rare.

Brooke's Petite Chocolate Éclairs
Tasty as they are adorable, Brooke's eclairs were in high demand and all gone long before dessert. For more of her gorgeous treats, check out her blog little bird big city!

Pâte à Choux (light pastry dough)
1/2 cup whole milk
1/2 cup water
7 tablespoon butter, cut into cubes
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cup flour
5-6 eggs

Combine milk, water, butter, sugar, and salt in a medium pot. Bring to a boil. Add flour and cook stirring vigorously for 1 minute, until dough is shiny. Transfer immediately to a mixing bowl. (Can use a standing mixer or handheld mixers). Beat in eggs one at a time, until the dough is elastic and smooth.Spoon dough into a piping bag fit with a round tip. Pipe onto a parchment lined cookie sheet into 2 inch logs.Bake in a 450 degree oven until just beginning to brown. Reduce temp to 300 and bake until pastries are fully browned.Once finished baking poke a hole in the end of each pastry with a sharp pairing knife for the filling.
Whip 2 cups cream and half cup of powdered sugar until stiff peaks form. Transfer to a piping bag fitted with a small round tip. Once the pastries have cooled, pipe each one full of whipped cream. Push the tip of the piping bag into the hole you punched through each eclair and fill it with the cream.Melt 6 oz of semi sweet chocolate and 6 oz of cream over a double boiler. Once it's melted, dip the top of each eclair into the chocolate mixture and set aside. Refrigerate. Once the chocolate has set, they're ready to serve!
* * * * * * * *
Near midnight the melting ice had begun to cause a shallow but inoffensive pond under the bar. The grills mellowed into soft red embers as the plates of food slowly disappeared from the table and the tea lights burned out one by one. The pecan pies appeared so I began scooping out chocolate and oatmeal stout ice cream floats for delighted party goers. The adorable waters made everything fuzzy and I couldn't stop smiling for getting the chance to be with so many old friends in one place, and participate in filling their happy bellies. Encapsulating the magic of the witching hour, a few folks climbed the water tower to howl at the big blue moon.212+ guests. Both cases of vodka - gone.Night photos compliments of Brooke Weeber, Erika Moya, Chris Woebken & Michael Vadino